Denim Autumn-Winter 23-24: Unexpected denim

There is no doubt that denim is one of the key materials for Autumn-Winter 23-24.

It is resolutely determined to unleash its full creative potential, and is working hard to cover all sectors.

In showing us other facets of its personality, it becomes an ideal material for heralding the stylistic renewal taking place around tailoring.

Exhibitors are innovating with all-new handles, behaviours and blends.

Denim’s place in the wardrobe falls between chic and relaxed, authentic and bold, and it’s making a significant place for itself right in the heart of the season, even if this does mean we may find it where we least expect to.

Between elegance and comfort

Carrying on from summer 23, exhibitors have worked on products that can meet the ongoing need for comfort while retaining the aesthetics that characterise jeans. And for this season, comfort is inherent to the search for elegance.

The evolution of stretch

In denim, comfort is also characterised by the growing importance of stretch in compositions, while considering issues of eco-responsibility. New mixtures are being implemented with recycled and/or bio-sourced materials. Some exhibitors are pushing innovation to the limit with mono-materials that avoid the use of synthetic fibre. They also create surprises with selvedge denims conceived in a blend of elastane and recycled polyester.

The increased presence of stretch enables the development of tighter-fitting products, but without hindering movement. We are thus witnessing the return of sexier garments, with corset styles and cut-outs highlighting but not restricting the silhouette.

Unpredictable softness

Material blends are evolving and innovating as they look to meet the needs of a less tailored and relaxed City wardrobe. The proportion of lyocell fibres in the cotton blends is increasing, resulting in softer and more fluid handles. This softness is also possible today on organic cotton thanks to the use of advanced finishes.

Here, we can imagine fluid products midway between chic pyjamas and nonchalant suits, which disrupt the urban universe with a more sensual approach. The visuals don’t necessarily lose their authenticity, with weaves typical of denim, that enhance a pronounced and visible weft. The weights strive to be wintry and focus on malleable handles.

Smart workwear

The workwear influence continues to appeal. This season, it’s resolutely anchored in the search for elegance, with raw and sleek washes. Natural materials – cotton, but also wool for winter suits – are in vogue.

In the natural fibre family, we note the rise of hemp, in addition to linen and, of course, cotton. Twill constructions offer a clean surface that adds a sophisticated touch to utilitarian-inspired suits.

This work continues around the weave, with herringbone and stripe effects inspired by men’s suits.

The use of lyocell brings a subtle shine to the canvas surfaces, evoking calendered effects. There is fun to be had in the disharmony between hyper-constructed clothes and canvases bearing a discreet shine. An influence that resonates with the return of more pronounced waists and the accessorising of precious belts. We also note this surprising contrast in the choice of labels and accessories with denim buttons engraved with Art Deco patterns.

Exaggerated authenticity

The denim season is asserting its attraction to natural materials with a fully embraced, yet skilfully revisited, authenticity.

Really authentic

The use of hemp is more pronounced. A fibre known for being ecologically responsible, hemp is a smart alternative to linen and easily combines with other natural materials such as cotton. This season, it has been chosen for its visual authenticity and its plant-based rusticity. There is no wish to hide its visible fibres or its very characteristic speckled appearance. Instead, its shaggy surfaces and rough feel are being enhanced thanks to larger proportions of fibre in the blends. Heavy weights and raw fabrics are combined here to accentuate this sought-after naturality or even marl finishes on cotton blends.

This authenticity sometimes incorporates imitations with blends of cotton and recycled polyester.

Chic and warm

The fabrics proposed by the exhibitors also strive to be wintrier, with heavier weights but also warm feels and finishes, recalling the traditional woollens of the men’s city wardrobe. The lyocell blends have emerized and downy undersides that offer cocooning and elegant comfort.

A universe that invites softness, materialised by corduroy velvets and tactile surfaces projected onto over-wide trousers, like deluxe loungewear. In terms of the compositions, we note the emergence of high-end, traceable natural materials, such as cashmere. And, in terms of accessories, labels embrace this tactility via plump embossings, shorn velvets and felts made of recycled polyester.

Find the other AW 23-24 breakdowns dedicated to denim in our magazine as well as the webinars devoted to next season’s denim trends in our digital show or at the live show in Berlin from 17 to 18 May.

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