Autumn-Winter 23-24 : Sport & Tech

Eco-design isn’t a meaningless buzzword. But the right methodology matters, which means producing well and staying consistent by paying attention to details. The sports sector, for example, isn’t planning to do without elastane or synthetic fibers, which are remarkably resistant even under the toughest conditions, but it is now carefully selecting recycled and biodegradable versions. While synthetics dominate the field, a matt look prevails, with a velvety feel or livened up with a subtle fantasy. Still, a natural vein remains strongly present in compositions and aspects. Technical fabrics and accessories are even reviving a new “field & stream” look! The fantasy of a wild, immersive and vanishing nature?

Micro-velvety surfaces

A taste for softness that never gets in the way of a fabric’s technical prowess is prevalent. The famous “peach skins” are back, boasting new features to make them oh-so desirable, like high-tech cosmetics. A deep, slightly powdery mattness, ultra-smooth handles, micro-emerized finishings and crisp handles give these a fresh update. As for performance, there’s zero compromise. Waterproof/breathable is a bare minimum, especially in active sports.

In pursuit of nature

A feeling of naturalness runs throughout this Autumn-Winter 23-24. Pure synthetics copy a cottony look and feel. Organic cotton + recycled synthetic compositions are increasingly common in all products. Merino wool and cellulosics focus on knitted fabrics and new generation fleeces. Waxed bio-sourced coatings gain ground. The sturdiness of work clothes for the outdoors, for forestry and fishing, inspires robust twills and indestructible ripstops, offered in 3 multi-functional layers. Special attention is paid to recycled resources and the use of biodegradable polymers.

Accessories: Practical camping

Accessories play around with the style codes of utilitarian objects common to outdoor activities. A reassuring strength is reflected in the sturdy laces and cords, non-galvanized buckles and hooks with raw or mechanically polished finishes, and wood-look stoppers in recycled plastic. Zips and eyelets come in funny gigantic versions, as if to better hammer home their usefulness!  

Rethinking elasticity

While stretch remains a critical necessity in the practice of most sports, the production and systematic use of elastic fibers is being questioned. For highly protective outerwear, flexibility can be achieved through the natural elasticity of synthetics and high-twist spinning to target 100% mono-material products, or minimize blends that are hard to recycle. Mechanical stretch can retain a feeling of comfort and facilitate mobility. In terms of stretch fibers, proposals geared at increasing the supply of recycled elastane are proliferating.

Plains with a secret

In a season where impeccably smooth surfaces dominate the game, any roughness or irregularity represents the height of fantasy! Synthetics have more personality thanks to fine slubbed yarns evoking plant fibers or raw silk. There’s a slight ripple to windbreaker surfaces, enlivened by light embossings, like Japanese paper. Ripstops are deliberately contrasted and enlarged, almost mini-windowpane checks.

Accessories: reflecting plains

While fabrics are playing on matt looks enhanced by surface effects, accessories go in for shine to set off their monochrome colorways. They don a pearly shimmer, with micro-sequined varnishes, metalloplastic yarns, satiny mirror effects, and glazed blackness. Retro-reflective versions wake up plains like a thunderbolt.

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