Ahead of the Denim Première Vision show in Milan on 22 and 23 November, get a sneak preview of next season’s denim trends.
For the SS25 season, the focus is on refined denim looks. Liberated from its wardrobe-basic status, denim plays out in a surprisingly diverse array of propositions. Strict or creative, ultra-thick or fluid, it lends itself to a variety of styles across all product categories.
Adopting the rigor of tailoring, denimwear goes upscale. Thick, raw denim is used to create flawlessly executed pieces with almost couture-level perfection, including elegant classics with wide cuts, with workwear details that add a twist to urban silhouettes.
A premium approach that lends itself to exceptional fabrication and artisanal techniques, such as Japanese selvedge denim dyed with natural indigo.
On the sustainable front, bast fibers (such as linen and hemp) are proving increasingly popular with each passing season. Resistant and high quality, these low-impact fibers have long been limited to small percentages of compositions, but cottonized hemp is gaining in popularity. This process, which consists of selecting the longest, most regular fibers, produces premium fabrics with a cotton-like aspect. Thanks to these innovations, linen and hemp are now available in a range of soft fabrics that break with the rustic associations of yesteryear.
The reigning mood is for comfort, and denim is no exception. The key to creating fluid, even silky denim lies in man-made cellulosic fibers. In blends or pure compositions, modal and lyocell can be used to create denim looks on soft, supple bases. Medium or light weights work perfectly for fluid dresses or sensual shirts that caress the body. For pants and skirts, these fabrics are enhanced by wide draped cuts that move with grace.
High-performance fibers are also increasingly prevalent, with denim offering ever greater comfort. Thermoregulating and antibacterial properties are combined with low-impact materials.
In terms of sustainable developments, the focus is on new-gen cellulose fibers, such as circulose. This man-made fiber is created from cellulose pulp derived from cotton garments (post-consumer recycling or production offcuts).
A subtle sheen coats denim for SS25. The most fluid developments appear illuminated by an iridescent veil which enhances movement. Rubbery finishes surface on every product category, down to accessories.
For an eco-responsible approach, water-based coatings are preferred.
Tricking the senses, these creative developments work like optical illusions. Denim imitations abound, pushing beyond the classic trompe-l’œil print. This season, they are combined with mechanical effects for startlingly convincing imitations. Examples include noble materials gone wild, such as wool drapes with a tailor’s finish that are constructed and worn-out like jeans. Denim, meanwhile, is not to be outdone, and is covered in colored coatings to imitate the rugged, animalistic look of leather.
Coatings are also available in black and white. Regular scrapings give the collections a mysterious, blurred atmosphere.
At the other end of the spectrum, denim embraces its decorative side. The animal and living worlds inspire loud combinations of colors, patterns and textures. An experimental profusion that combines dévoré fabrics, spray effects, interplays of yarns and distressed wear and tear effects.
In terms of color, the range is shimmering but precise: indigo is enlivened by warm (burgundy and orange) and cool (bright khakis) shades.
This color range also plays out in a simplified version on XXL prints to dynamize and add a youthful street vibe to tailoring pieces.