Denim Première Vision touched down in Milan this 22 and 23 November. Have a peek at the coming denim trends and see our preview of next season’s creative directions.
A wave of softness runs through denim. Colors are muted, washes are faded. A delicate, desaturated mood comes through in colors spanning whites to wispy pastels to dark grays. For a new, mellow take on workwear with delicately nuanced tones, fadings and bleachings.
Powder gray & Eco-blacks
There’s ever more light in denims. Dusty greys broaden their hold in color harmonies. Gray-tinted blues look icy, frosty.
These product proposals are largely the result of denim-to-denim recyclings. Recycling fabrics without the use of new dye results in faded and greyish tonalities. When blended with organic denim, the percentage of such fibers is varied to achieve a perfect balance. In finishings, ozone washes and white or gray coatings accentuate the blurry look.
The abundance of grays is rounded out by updated blacks. Whether washed or grayish, they look less intense than in past seasons. Driving this change are the new eco blacks – drawing on advanced dyeing techniques to achieve blacks with a reduced ecological impact.
Derived from natural pigments or wood-industry residues, these new-generation dyes can be applied via spray or used in piece-dyeing. The resulting items display a characteristic irregularity. Eco-blacks can also be applied as toppings, for color schemes ranging from tone-on-tone (on a gray or indigo base) to a more contrasted look (on pastels).
Denim is tinged with yellow, reflecting the passage of time. Neutral bases in hues ranging from gray to indigo feature subtle yellowish overdyes. Coatings and spray effects are layered for pale and dirty denim. A somewhat sandy atmosphere broken down in a warm palette ranging from yellow to ochre to olive green. For jeanswear with a vintage spirit.
Denim is no longer confined to shades of blue, and now boasts an ever-increasing variety of colors. This creativity goevs hand in hand with a search for ways to reduce the impact of color, thanks to waterless dyes, natural pigments, laser printing and ozone washing.
Color this season is understated, approached evocatively in bleached pastels. Pinks are soft, delicate, like a cloud of cotton candy. Whites, on the other hand, look dingy, more akin to dirty ecru.
As part of this same search for softness, the season spotlights floral and plant motifs. Fabrics convey a subtly decorative mood, expressed in washed-out and overdyed prints and jacquard denims. Denim techniques are revisited and rival the sophistication of silkies, like the evenly worked signs of wear reminiscent of eyelet embroidery.
For jeanswear with a new delicacy, giving a refined edge to everyday looks.