Requests for autumn winter 2019-20 textiles and decorations are marked by a joint desire for visual daring and subtle handles. Tartans, animal skins and paisleys prove popular when they are worked in an offbeat way, are cheeky, and show off novel colourways. Buyers go beyond appearance, guided by tactile nature, the intrinsic quality of fabrics, their technical features and ecological commitment.
Choices celebrate bi-materials, worked in opposition, in complement, and sometimes even in bizarre duos. Checks bonded to plains, double weaves with differing colours or patterns, pieces combining cosy interiors and technical exteriors, and face/back plays for unlined coats.
While checks are in high demand for all market, from tops to trenches, it’s in coat-weight woollens that they stand out most flagrantly. In mohair, in flattened bouclette, in brushed and even partially torn-out wools, checks play on softer colourways and often enlarged sizes.
JACKETS AND ENSEMBLES
Denser fluid suitings, fine wools in cashmere blends, moving silks, and new supple and full viscose earn high marks. Few professionals can ignore the irresistible appeal of these luxuriously tactile sensations.
Irregular surfaces inspired by minerals stand out. There is an increase in tweeds sprinkled with gold or silver reflections, rocky multi-coloured throwns, silkies with grainy aspects. Random metallization and discreet shimmer are preferred over a bold, uniform shine.
Graphic herringbones do well in both knits and wovens. Tie-like jacquards with enlarged motifs, diamond-patterns, embroidered, figured or printed, address a desire for a dynamic simplicity.
DRESSES AND TOPS
For silky tops, buyers favour fluidity with a precious yet everyday appeal, as in relaxed washed satiny fabrics, lively viscose twills, smooth and sleek knits.
Autumn winter 2019-20 takes motifs on a trip to the Orient. Topping requests are printed palmettos and
Persian florals: whether stylised or enlarged, placed in framing scarf patterns, or in close-set all-overs.
Extravagant animal markings, panther motifs in improbable colours, mythical felines, in jacquard knits, silkies or prints, truer than life leopards, extraordinarily evoked in lace: the skins of eccentric animals are big winners!
While flowers cede their first-place position this season, they remain broadly sampled. The starring versions were giant-sized, with simplified graphics and intense flat tints. Even in lace and embroidery, buyers like petals and foliage with affirmed patterns, for maximum readability.