Lognon, a history of pleating

Paris, rue Casanova. The apartment dates from the 17th century, the flooring is listed Louis XIV, the walls are covered with 3000 cardboard sheets which have faded over time. We are in the workshop of Gérard Lognon, pleat maker for over four generations. His great grandmother began the family tradition under the reign of Napoléon III when the profession was still known as “calanderer”. It was then the men of the following generations who passed the torch down to one another, each one learning from their ancestor, gifted with the family talent.
Today, five people work at Logon l’indéplissable (in another time up to sixty people worked there simultaneously) delicately folding the cloths for haute couture, cinema and opera costumes, lawyer’s gowns and for some fortunate individuals. The material is first placed between two kraft paper moulds (some of which are more than a century old), they are then put in a vapour oven during one hour ; the material is finally removed from its mould, delicately so as not to damage the patterns, which are sometimes very sophisticated.
The high quality of the pleats has allowed the Lognon workshop to continue through the ages and it has established itself as one of the last pleat makers in Paris, still delivering pleats in the form of suns or poetic “bouquets of flowers” as well as the famous pleated silk squares for Hermès.