An overview of selections made by fashion-brand designers and buyers at Première Vision Fabrics in September 2017.
Here following, the autumn winter 1819 fabric and colour choices, derived from a survey of 338 international textile companies conducted by eight interviewers.
Autumn winter 1819 traces out a new elegance built on an offbeat and inventive authenticity. Handles with a bold personality and rich yet unostentatious aspects were firmly in the foreground of the September 2017 buyers’ outlook. An air of fantasy wafts through the overall atmosphere. Yarn effects modify tartans and other colour-woven patterns. Visual vibrations animate regular surfaces. The depth of colourways lends a density to patterns. Beyond these stylistic choices, the season’s fashion landscape shows aesthetics playing an increasingly important role in sustainable developments.
The time is right for sustainability. Environmental awareness is now a selection criterion. In fact, looking at this Best survey as a whole, twice as many weavers’ responses involved sustainable development. Which are the pioneering markets? Active sports and outdoors, where preferences tend to recycled synthetics and functional finishes. Citywear and casualwear – men’s and women’s – joined in too, and are registering a growing search for eco-friendly products. Knits consolidate all requests: organic, renewable, recycled, natural and synthetic fibres and 100% ecological finishings and production methods.
Both menswear and womenswear choices favour lively fluidity, a structured ‘floatiness’, for chicly dynamic silhouettes. This autumn winter 1819 season, buyers’ fingers lingered over fabrics ensuring freedom of movement. They gave two thumbs up to firm textiles, provided they weren’t rigid. Refined compacts point to less bulky garments and stretch fabrics won’t follow the body too closely.
This season, a desire for smoothness is sharply increasing in all markets.
The N°1 selection are fabrics with regular finishings, free of any surface roughness. Choices have less texture, less surface irregularity, preferring instead textiles with very readable visual effects like throwns or smoothened tweedies or knops. Priority is given to calendered and lacquered fabrics conducive to shine, in suitings, in technical fabrics and in silkies.
Buyers expect a solid dose of impertinence to pack new life into familiar visuals. At the top of requests are re-fashioned houndstooths and Prince of Wales, and British classics in new print and embroidery versions. Tartans revitalised by grating colourways. Traditional checks blurred by brushings, or disrupted by bouclé or tweedy yarns. These plays on authenticity are overly solicited, to lend the season a good dash of irony.
Temperatures are rising… to attract buyers. Wool slips into shirting, embroidery, silk and even jeanswear, where it imparts its warmth all in finesse. The irresistible appeal of warm cosiness can also be read in the increased choices for sueded and velvety textiles. Buyers like the more shorn velvets, whether smooth or ribbed, and subtly emerised cotton blends.
Flowers galore yes, but not just any! Only flowers that look clearly cut-out on coloured grounds, or with enlarged motifs. We want the feel of floral generosity, fleshy and intensely pigmented petals. In lace, patterns exceeding 10 cm and widely spaced on tulle networks are the first to catch the eye. In embroidery, that means flowers worked in thickness, and enhanced with woolly threads. In silk jacquard and printing, the preferred florals are in a pictorial but precise register and in stylized and all-over interpretations.