Fashion guest: Thomas Zylberman’s Spring Summer 22 fabric choices



Thomas Zylberman –  fashion designer at Carlin International, ready-to-wear expert and a Première Vision consultant –  shares with us his fabric and decorative preferences for spring-summer 22.

Is spring-summer 22 a season of endless possibility?

Let’s wager that our curiosity, senses and desires will at last be rediscovering more open and stimulating horizons, conducive to stronger, more ambitious, or just more carefree stylistic expressions… or even – let’s come right out and say it – something more frivolous? At Carlin Creative, we’ve created “Pavane” , invoking a seductive dance that doesn’t shy from hedonism, and re-affirms a taste for appearance, a desire to combine a certain sense of decorum with a real urge for freshness, maybe even innocence. But without abandoning our commitment to more responsible, sustainable fashions, and a certain everyday comfort, without sacrificing an ounce style. Because, yes, for SS22 we all want to look good, look beautiful…! In partnership with the Première Vision team, I’m happy to share with you a newfound delight in fabrics and materials, through a necessarily subjective but nevertheless quite socially engaged selection:

Fantasy and "ungendered" tailoring

Jacquards are a focal point of this trend, with their affinity for the ornamental, towards figured and opulent motifs, in short the “silky” spirit so indispensable to the allure of the free-spirited, androgynous dandy who we can imagine outfitted in structured, tailored garments with historical references. A dandy not afraid to dip into the world of corsetry… Frivolous, absolutely, but with more and more recycled fibers used in these jacquard weaves, a positive evolution quite relevant to this type of fabric with its contrasting and fancy yarns.

Velvety and virtuous terries

The need for comfort and freedom of movement has become an integral part of our lifestyles – whether relaxing, chilling out, or working in our loungewear. So for SS22 we opt for these almost childlike terry-velour knits. They can also evoke the teenage sweaters popular in the early 2000s. And we allow ourselves this guilty, deliciously regressive pleasure because these fabrics tick all the right boxes: they’re knitted in France, and they favor so-called “organic” cotton, recycled fibers and traceability throughout the manufacturing process.

Not that simple!

This season we’ll also need “simple” but subtly structured surfaces, to convey either the paleness of colors or simply a dazzling whiteness. Whether woven or knit, in cotton versions or silky in appearance, these semi-plains lend themselves to refined and feminine casual wear. In light weights, they can be worked in mini-damasks, tiny squared designs, little piqués… they restore a sense of texture and touch, which has been undermined lately by an overabundance of digital and lifeless fashions… Next year, we’ll have to shake ourselves out of this sensory numbness, that’s for sure…!

Openwork and very, very fresh decoration

Yes, we want embellishment, as you’ve clearly understood by now, but with freshness, decorations that breathe, preferably with a cottony handle, so we embrace quite large eyelet embroidery. Part floral and part geometric, they evoke the layouts of French gardens like the ones at Versailles or Vaux-le-Vicomte, a major source of inspiration for this story. The other option is quite matt guipure, delicately cut and deftly scrolled, worked in immaculate volutes and rosettes.

To conclude this spring frolic, which so skillfully combines know-how and frivolity, structure and comfort, a taste for appearances and social engagement, I would like to emphasize the extent to which fabrics, their handles and their movement are at the heart of our work, for fashion that is humanistic, lively and… real!

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