Summary of fashion directions for autumn winter 1819

Each season, Première Vision Paris provides unique fashion expertise and exclusive seasonal information and directions elaborated by the Première Vision fashion team. They are presented in 13 forums, across nearly 5,000 m² of dedicated fashion areas.

At the latest edition of Première Vision Paris, held this past 19-21 Sept. 2017, the autumn winter 1819 fashion directions were vividly represented in the many forums and various fashion conferences.

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Summary of the fashion directions

Under the auspices of the dynamic “cloud of fashion,” the season initiates new synergies between aspects and handles, the digital and material worlds. 

 

A season that envisions fashion at its most demanding: appealing to the emotions and creativity, speaking with a strong voice, occasionally disturbing but always resolute and sensitive, to lead the future towards a decidedly positive dynamic.

A season – warm and offbeat – in the forefront of new visual and tactile vocabularies surging with creativity.

Materials and patterns strive for originality, veering off into humorous offshoots or verging on the eerie.

A season that charmingly, rebelliously asks, “what’s normal?”, turning to impertinence to overturn elegance, and eerie imaginings to throw off convention.

A season that broadly supports responsibility and respect for the environment, engendering ever more appealing and intelligent solutions. An exceptionally creative and generous season, for resolutely fashionable and sexy silhouettes.

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Colours

A season where colour is expressed as a message, driving an anti-black rebellion with subdued shades and darks. It features thrilling combinations of super plains with lively tones. It plays with vibrating colours, new shot looks, subtle iridescence and clean and hazy cloudy effects.

An autumn winter season where products awaken the senses, blur distinctions between aspects and handles, between knowledge and recognition. They defy 2D and 3D, and initiate new silhouettes promising profound change.

PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS

Firm fineness

Where firmness doesn’t rhyme with stiffness, and fineness means protective warmth.

Compact broadcloths, crushed felts, denser satins and slimmer quiltings, scubas and fleeces. Refined and strong leathers, shaved furs, flattened components, leaf-like rivets, feather buttons, jewellery-like zips.

Sparks of light

Mattness gives way to light and shine. Colour nestles in the reflections of lacquered and sanded surfaces. Light slips into luminescent sparks deep inside suitings, tweeds and bouclettes. On surfaces, it pervades the ridges of grained leathers and the interstices of embossings and quiltings. It is liquefied and spreads in oily puddles across thick and runny performant-textiles and silkies. It is sprinkled as beaded metals and playfully emerges in myriad stellar bodies across patterns, buttons and labels.

Nonconformist humour

A breadth and a determined focus on the unconventional fuels decorations, aspects and handles. Decoration refutes convention, with checks, tattershalls and stripes deviating from their routine paths. They are contorted by fancy yarns, or made of interfering materials or impertinent or funny embroideries. Patterns are rendered blurry in precise brushings, needle-punched to the most unlikely partners, redirected onto hairies, plastics, empty spaces and doubles, and layered or superimposed on fabrics, leathers or accessories.

A taste of the bizarre

The fantasy world pushes the boundaries of patterns, which move into fantastic or more abstract universes. Unreal landscapes, invasive and larger flowers navigate structured and complex grounds. Decoration features swirling, hypnotic shapes, strange insects, troubling figuratives. Ghostly motifs and fancy yarns are finely extracted from the shadows for mysterious suitings, components and jewels.

The imagination prefers a cloudy haziness as its host. It plays on 2D and 3D, fooling even the most expert hands, leading products to vacillate between feminine/masculine, shirt /jacket, pants/dress with disturbing weights, creating deliberate and mutant in-betweens.

Excessive softness

Softness also takes up a theme of renewal. It continues its transformation with velvets and leathers that are suppler, stretchier, sportier, bumpier, puffier, with more blends of materials. It grows talc-like and supple, with suitings in viscose and silk blends. It plays hide-and-seek on contrasting double faces, and puts shearling and sheepskin in the forefront. It is adorned in flockings, and defies aesthetic/functional references by lending a softly tender look even to snap-hooks, chains and beads.