Box calf

A reminder about a classic

Many claim to produce it. But very few actually do so, as it is such a demanding product. Firstly, only the most perfect calf skins can be used – 10% of hides according to our correspondent at Tanneries du Puy, which is one of the great specialists in box calf. This is because of the highly transparent aniline finish which will not hide defects nor correct the grain. Few tanneries are familiar with the specific chrome tanning formula that produces the stiffness which makes it the ideal leather for footwear. “Shoes made from box calf age better as they resist flexion and do not form creases”, our expert explains. Before adding: “It is also greatly appreciated in the leather goods sector; indeed this use is becoming nearly as important as footwear now.” Even fewer still are those who master the protein treatment and subsequent smoothing using glass beads that give box calf its natural shine. “The smoothing process is also a good test of the skin quality as its tends to make any traces of veins show through,” our correspondent from the Tannerie d’Annonay tells us, also reputed for its box calf. Even the drying is done “according to special methods”, he tells us. The luxury houses that are partial to this material will be glad to hear it!

The shine and finesse of the box calf grain are peerless.© Tannerie du Puy

©Tanneries du Puy