Checked motifs are back, in embroidery as well as in leather and fabrics, in updated versions that tip their hats to tradition without foregoing any modernity.
India’s Ricamour Embroideries freely embellishes ultra-classic tartans with a double twist, with irregular and moving lines and all-over applications of round and rectangular sequins. Rich and gleaming, an unusual sequinned tartan makes a fine base for sequinned floral appliqués worked in volume, for a baroque, optical result.
Colour is the outright star of the updated checks at Beppetex. For next winter, this Italian company – fully steeped-in-tradition, with a lineage of weavers dating back to the 16th century – refreshes classic trouser structures like 100% cotton Twill and Bull with vintage yarn-dyed tartans in greens and purples boosted by an excitingly modern orange.
The firm’s historical archives have provided a major source of inspiration for French mill Jules Tournier since 1865. Its checks in wool, cotton, silk and polyester blends play on volume, using bouclette-yarn finishings to boost each pattern’s outlines. Dual colour pairings make it possible to print this pattern in either a more classic direction (black / white, red / white / black) or in a contemporary and unconventional vein (green / pink / yellow / black, mixed grey / black / yellow).
Leather also reworks checks to equally rich and surprising effect. For example, Spain’s Rubio Export has a special offer of lambskin printed digitally with a checked design, whose hand-drawn lines and vibrant chromatisms recall watercolours and glassware.
A range of examples showing how a creative recovery of the past can contribute to the fashions of tomorrow, in step with a progressive deconstruction of genres also seen in the subtle art of graphic motifs.