From the development of raw materials to embellishments aplenty, via uncommon weaving and knitting techniques, Maison d’Exceptions offers materials a range of unique transformations. Mother-of-pearl, feathers, latex, silk, raffia – these are just some of the materials that are transcended by the expert fingers and machinery of the 24 exceptional studios brought together for the 9th edition of Maison d’Exceptions. From ancestral techniques to cutting-edge technology, savoir-faire takes centre stage in this area dedicated to haute creation.
Japan, India, Bangladesh, China: all around the world, weaving techniques draw on endemic savoir-faire, transmitted from generation to generation. Whether the local resources are tinctorial plants like those used by 7Weaves or Living Blue, or regional textile techniques reinvented by Kashida Studio or Village Embassy, these artisanal studios participate in the reincarnation of vernacular tradition.
Patiently, row after row, the threads align, the magic occurs and the natural or synthetic fibre becomes volume. Each in their own way, Cécile Feilchenfeldt and Xavier Brisoux uniquely re-invent knitwear and offer a baroque and architectural vision of the technique, whilstAurélia Leblanc or Amaike Textile Industry push the boundaries of weaving by creating effects of transparency and subtle colouring.
There are weaving, knotting and tracery effects from the United Arab Emirates for IRTHI Contemporary Crafts Council, from Japan for Omiya Connect and from France for Laurentine Périlhou. Detailed kaleidoscopes, playing with fragmentation or assemblies of feathers and elements cut out from paper or metal, are the work of Janaïna Milheiro, Maison Lemarié and Lucie Touré. Enigmatic support materials, where the surface becomes a chameleon and it is hard to put a name to the technique being used: embroidery, insertions, hand-painting, screen-printing, applications of gold leaf…the embellishment work of studios such as Anne Gelbard, Atelier Marion Chopineau, Atelier Richard de Latour, Ricami Laura, Sanchita or Aurélie Lanoiselée transcend colours and supports to offer their effects of changing highlights or volume and patterns in trompe l’œil.
Exception is also sometimes born from the simple preciousness of materials, the buttons of Ypac exploiting the fragility of porcelain, while Stel Ornements captures in its inclusions of resin an entire universe of miniatures, or where, more minimalist still, Superlativa sheaths a variety of surfaces in mother of pearl. And even when the most noble materials, such as horn, leather and wood, come in the form of offcuts, Authentic Material does not waste a scrap and recomposes them in order to offer them new uses as accessories, from marquetry to eyewear.
The scales of application are infinite: from the monumental and ephemeral installation in the window of a flagship store to the preciousness and fineness of jewellery, the stealth of a haute couture catwalk show to the limited edition of a luxury handbag, all the studios selected by Maison d’Exceptions have used their technical prowess to master creation.
Find out the whole ateliers present on Maison d’Exceptions HERE