Assembling explodes

The success of assembled and composite fabrics is changing style codes in a big way, shaping an evolving and citifi ed sportswear look, where distinction is synonymous with innovation, and elegance with comfort.

The world of fabrics changes, and so do wardrobes. For proof, look no further than the success of new assembly techniques indicating a growing demand for textile wizardry able to suggest, even create, shapes and new ways of dressing. What could be better, in fact, than a fabric that is actually two textiles, and even boasts superpowers? Technology, eclecticism, innovation and fantasy are all key to a trend that’s both growing and developing, to meet the challenge of creating fabrics at once elegant and sporty, natural and powerful, delicate and solid. In a word, amazing. The reasons behind the spread of these fabrics with multiple essences are the same in both womenswear and menswear: the world of sports apparel has forever changed how we think about fashion, and lies at the heart of a new urban style, where elegance goes hand in hand with comfort, and luxury with easy-to-wear.


For Piergiovanni Donatucci, style director at Beste (Première Vision Fabrics), this quest for a high-performant fineness with a luxury punch translates into subtle details connoisseurs will recognise, like fi ne three-layer fabrics whose colourful interior emerges only when cut; and foams and waterproof neoprene membranes combined with classic cashmere-jersey duos. All are assembled using the heat sealing and bonding techniques that represent the lion’s share of this market, including labels combining shine and opacity, velvet and voile thanks to a “seamless” process using the thermo-adhesive polyurethane made by the Reca Group (Première Vision Accessories).

Paola Fileppo, sales manager for Tessilbiella Srl (Première Vision Fabrics), points out the virtually limitless combination of weights and handles created by these seamless doubling techniques, and cites examples that have already made it onto the runways at leading brands: elegant coats in scuba-style fabrics featuring neoprene membranes that transform classic wool coats into elegant outdoor cover-ups.

All in one

Sculptural without being heavy, structured yet lightweight, women’s fashion joins the hunt for techno fantasy assemblies with fl irty couples playing on contrasts in weight, yet combining practicality and seduction. Like the lace married to foam that Caterina Ailiesei from KFA Intermed Style (Première Vision Manufacturig) calls a “fashion textile of the moment.” And 3D visual effects become more complex at LMA (Première Vision Fabrics), thanks to plays on vertiginous layers and membranes. Whether bonded or laminated, or knits or 3D mesh, composites are at once both double-sided, breathable, thermal, wind-resistant and exquisitely chic. With function and performance in a single item, it’s time to get to your assemblies!