The search for an especially modern elegance steps in and unobtrusively blows up the chic conformity of menswear. A path emerges between a merely outward authenticity and sophistication flirting with feminine codes. By going for unconventional decorations and faux classic motifs, designers and buyers delight in playing it tricky.
Buyers like clever plays on well-known Prince of Wales and houndstooth patterns, even in their most incongruous interpretations: unconventional colourways or jazzed up with fancy yarns. Yet they prefer soft, barely contrasted colourways, to avoid any overdose of eccentricity. Offbeat twists also include brushed finishings that blur patterns.
Following many seasons when menswear buyers preferred mattness, the suitings they’re focusing on this season have light-catching surfaces. They like muted shine, where a light silky spirit infuses tailored fabrics. Delicate calendarings, weaves without any roughness, discreet mercerisings.
A sharp turn towards less voluminous coats comes through in the buyers’ favourites. A new generation of slimmer felts and reefer broadcloths, free of stiffness, topped selections. There are also blocked knit versions for fine coats or jackets. Even brushed and velvety fabrics are preferred lighter, more closely shorn, but not limp.
Dense and alert
Though priority is still given to compacts, as has been true for over five winter seasons, they are no longer on the rise; and most importantly, density is now teamed with flexibility or fluidity. Fluidity climbed its way up the rankings, passing from 10% of interest to 17%, well ahead of suppleness. So, the men’s silhouette will be less rigid, but no less chic, as super 120 to super 150 extra-fine wools and stretch blends are gaining ground.