Spring-Summer 23 Women’s Bag & Shoe: between proud craftmanship and bold simplicity! The 10 March 2022 - Spring-Summer 23 - Leather - Accessories

Regarding leather goods, bags are focused on colour and its visual impact. The goal is to achieve the demands of monochromes with materials that reach perfection.

Ruffled pouches are produced in tender leathers with a caressing, velvety texture. They have matt surfaces with powdery or chalky finishes that enhance the colours. Bright colours are sweetened to evoke powdery neons. In finishes, beads and plump clasps bring a touch of almost childlike auto-derision to the style. Miniature box bags are accompanied by exaggeratedly oversized components. Round or square buckles, in recycled, translucent resin, resemble vibrant, acidic sorbets decorating these bags. Functional bags, mini bags for phones, headphones or water bottles are produced in jellified, rubbery leathers, whilst playing with partial opacity, thanks to the addition of components – chains, buttons – produced in bubble gum pastels. Playing with these textures, leathers imitate textiles to align with this silhouette which favours knitwear and comfort. Fluffy, frayed appearances, apparently permanent pleats and embossed finishes renew supple XXL bags.

Multi-strap sandals with square heels and two-tone soles complete this youthful and dynamic look. To bring a feminine touch to cyclists clad in urban knits, stilettos in ultra-clean nappa with pointed toes are produced in bright, almost neon colours. The sport influence is never far away. Pool flip-flops are placed on vertiginous heels with expansive woven leathers at the front for a bold look. And platform shoes with exaggeratedly wedge heels are found in vinyl-look lacquered leathers – for a retro touch.

In leather goods, innovation around vegetable tanning has resulted in a wider colour palette, with effects created by over-pigmented translucent patinas. These new technologies have also given leather greater softness, while preserving the irregularities of the skins’ surface. An important development which makes it possible to design large, soft shoulder bags decorated with maxi-buckles in coloured wood or handles in woven cord. Or boxy bags paired with canework and decorated with geometric cut-outs. Huge totes are produced in gradients of coloured raffia and enriched with accessories and fantasy charms. Satchels adopt leathers decorated with embossings to resemble cork or Palmellato effects. Leathers also have a so-called dehydrated look, to evoke the roughness and dryness of porous clay. Materials that can be imagined on extremely simplified shapes and which magnify these exacerbated textures.

Here as well, the spotlight is on naturality. Jute cloth is used everywhere on shoes, from the sole to the upper, the straps to the buckles. Wedge mules are built from multicolour vegetable-tanned woven leather, bringing to mind a fashion tweed effect. Sport combines with ancestral know-how. We think of sneakers with hand-sewn soles using large visible rustic thread in a “Goodyear” style. Beach shoes with a notched sole made from EVA are paired with an upper made from embossed leathers like ethnic embroidery: a bold and surprising combination that offers a relaxed take on the codes of craftmanship and sport.