The expressive motion of hand-drawn lines vividly embodies the AW 21/22 season’s decorative designs, seen across all mediums, with personal interpretations consistently infused with meaning.
In a continuation of this past summer, marblings and their abstract designs continue to inspire a certain amount of the coming season’s creative directions. These tend to be more sharply graphic, somewhat less hazy, with nuances that favor strong, clear-cut shades deliberately evoking a certain exacerbated sensitivity.
Waves and fluctuations, whether more or less accentuated, convey enthusiasm and agitation, as well as calmness and peace.
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Large and generous, this season’s marblings occasionally strive for a passionate and flamboyant note, worked in fiery and captivating reddish-orange tones.
Accentuated by satiny, even sparkly fabrics, dresses and tops flaunt shapes with an inescapable power of attraction, ready to set fire to AW 21/22.
Jacquards are embellished with raised motifs in shades of purplish blue and feature a certain waviness. They range in intensity, provoking disturbing optical effects, like bubbling whirlpools. When used for women’s suits, they invite head-to-toe looks that lead us into a slightly fantasy-oriented universe. In darker versions, graduated greens encompassing the deepest hues are worked on satiny bases, and delicate flocked or embroidered tulle with swirls of oxidized metals illuminate intricate designs soothed by a temporary lull.
This season’s marblings reflect stronger creative choices, moving away from soft and pastel shades and their water-colored versions.
Next winter’s marblings emphasize abstract designs, thanks to a richly pigmented curviness, with more saturated hues. In two-tone versions, lines are crisper, more brittle – almost eager to express themselves straightforwardly, without filter or detour, and a forceful desire to impact the future. These optical games play on organic imitations, halfway between the minerality of sliced-open stones, and the roiling living cells of the human body.
In accessories, marbling is often worked in graduated blacks and whites, evoking natural stones and polished pebbles barely emerging from the shadows, or strange curls of smoke.
Clean, geometrical shapes are misted over by these pared-down curves, to accessorize charmingly romantic lace tops or dresses.
Particularly fond of dark colorways, accessories veined with warmer hues – khakis and browns with the heady air of forest glades – draw us firmly into a more organic approach to nature. Labels are adorned with prints recalling tree bark and ancestral tree rings – motifs evoking the transformative artisanship of a cabinetmaker shaping his raw material.
Occasionally, buckles and buttons are bathed in preciousness, in oxidized and elegant renderings mimicking the shells of earthly creatures – beetles and dragonflies – and exotic resins, okoume or mahogany. Lighter color ranges, in graduated amber tones, cover buttons resembling like animal horn.
Leathers can also be imagined in dark colorways. Imitation blacks are adorned in ever so slightly greenish metallic reflections, in light and disparate coatings, and illuminate exaggeratedly sinusoidal waves, giving a new interpretation to fantastical animal skins – part marine and part terrestrial – and imaginary precious woods. Enigmtic skins that are right for embellishing tiny round evening bags. Curves are sometimes expressed in a rounder yet still mysterious way. There are also more clearly defined prints in oxidized metal, flat tints deliberately worked around twists, and random deformations, like roiling living cells. Almost 3D optical effects look straight out of a retro-futuristic science-fiction movie.
The AW 21/22 season continues to favor the marbling effects found across the season’s decorative designs. These are personal and clear-cut interpretations, as if to forcefully convey a desire to be part of the movement, part of the change.