In pursuit of its quest for freedom, the menswear code continues to shrug off conventions. This removal of barriers between styles and genres started a few seasons back and is now influencing citywear. Lightness and optimism are key elements of menswear collections for summer 22. Soft colours, fluid materials, reworked floral prints: everything goes, including adopting feminine luxury!
A pivotal item of the masculine wardrobe, the suit expresses joie de vivre and optimism through the use of colour. Softened and feminine, colours abandon gender codes and make a statement.
Already present for some time in feminine collections, this season, mauve is proving a brilliant colour for masculine Essentials. Suits adopt straight, fluid cuts, in perfect harmony with these pastel shades.Linen and silk blends display a subtle shine. Crepe with a soft texture and heavy drape reworks the traditional suit trouser or is used to product ample trench coats to be worn over suits. In a more formal register, checks with simple, pure lines and tweed styles combine acid greens such as “Bourgeon ethanol” and purples such as “Mauve azote” to produce astonishing colour combinations.
Pink and its variations continue to make their mark in Menswear, and are becoming an essential colour for the next season. An unashamedly bold fuchsia pink “Framboise pimentée” is to be found on all items including as a monochrome on fluid suits, with exaggerated lengths and nipped-in waists to offer a floating, elongated appearance.
Warmer pinks, such as “Rose bonbon” are used on refined crepe materials to make high-waisted loose trousers that cascade gently onto shoes, as well as semi-transparent shirts in light voile. Colours that can be seen now on the Première Vision Colour Range for Summer 22.
Carefree and light, men’s shirts focus on transparency. They appear as tunics, or in ample and long kaftans, midway between a trench coat and a luxury négligé, and suggest a certain sensual nonchalance. Long, diaphanous shirts in silk chiffon are precious and worn against the skin, embellished with elegant shine or playing with opacity.
Satin materials are also in vogue. Flowing silks that offer an incomparable drape to tunics and allow an accumulation of genderfluid details such as bows, gathers and flounces. Materials that are also used on belted suits designed to dazzle in chic soirées. Blended with elastane, satins offer a comfortable freedom of movement and can be used on shorter tops, even asymmetric brassieres, to be worn with more formal suits.
With the blossoming of this new sensitivity, floral motifs run riot over men’s shirts and tops. Elongated and exotic flowers in clashing colours, combining “Framboise pimentée” with “Orange embrasé” or “Cyber Violet”, renew the tropical or pop vibe. Blurred flowers, as if infused with pastel shades, such as “Mauve azote” or “Vertige Menthol” green, bring a candid and youthful freshness to 90s references. An inspiration that is also found in the blurred checks on shirts, given a washed look thus revising the now classic Tachist and tie & dye styles.
Cases for e-cigarettes, mobiles phones and new generation headphones create new mobility requirements. Bags combine enhanced functionality and aesthetics. Maxi-volumes for day time make use of stiff and colourful leathers, worn on the shoulder paired with suits in the same single chromatic palette. To complete this pop and urbane silhouette, simple footwear, like modern roman sandals are produced in soft leathers to combine ankle straps and soft pastel shades. A monochrome total look from head to toe!
In response to the irresistible desire to go out and party, small format bags – purses and bucket bags – are ostentatious and combine brash leathers in metallic colours, or patent crocodile patterns or iridescent prints. The ideal occasion for sporting some frankly ostentatious accessories, such as brooches or earrings made with semi-precious stones.
The new season of city wear promises to be gender fluid and great fun!
Discover early ideas for AW22-23 menswear with our focus on wool drape.