Menswear AW 22-23: Wool drape breaks away from classicism The 5 July 2021 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris

There is no question of elegance being overlooked as a result of originality. Coats show off their classic cuts, shoulders are marked and impose an assured confidence. Straight, simple lines place the accent on the quality of materials and the choice of quirky checks. Wool drape is worked in conjunction with fluffy wools – mohair and alpaca – to bring a sensual warmth and blur the lines of checks. These appear in shades of brown, enlivened by threads in bold colours or underlined with more dissonant tones: fuchsia pinks that combine with chlorophyll green and zesty orange.  

In more audacious versions, wool drape takes on the activist colours of the season such as scandal pink, cardio orange or red carpet, which can be found now on the Première Vision colour range for AW 22-23.They accompany classic cuts inspired by double buttoned cross-overs and are extremely long, creating a spectacular effect. The sportier versions, like oversized parkas, are enhanced with details such as visible functional zips, press studs or drawstrings made in tone-on-tone colours for a maximum energized effect.

In a more minimalist inspiration, very long wool drapes have rounded shoulders and adopt the codes of the trench coat, with maximised lower panels and tightly belted waists. The use of coloured double-sided fabrics allows the focus to shift to the over-sized lapels and play with colour contrasts by using enhanced tones, or applying carefully studied contrasts or colour Prince of Wales checks.

More refined masculine silhouettes focus on monochrome looks with just the occasional coloured accessory slipping into the outfit to create a splash of colour.

Fake fur makes a bold appearance in men’s outerwear collections for the next season. As a replacement for classic wool drape, the different lengths of hair bring a touch of fun to male overcoats. Versions with long, silky hair, looking polished in reddish shades, imitate an animal that has come straight from the Far North. More extravagant zebra, spotted or striped versions in more artificial colours evoke supernatural animals. A flashy touch to be added to oversized Menswear coats for next year.

Fake fur with short, curly hair brings to mind shearling and is dyed in bold colours and decorated with random patterns: from tie & dye style with a very 90s inspiration, or in checks with lines in contrasting colours. On long and ample blouson jackets with a sporting look, these shearling furs renew the polar spirit and combine with loose cargo pants to offer Outdoor-inspired looks for urban mountain-lovers.