Linen for Spring-Summer 23: Honed authenticity

Nothing can stop the runaway success of European linen. Cultivated without irrigation*, free of GMOs and requiring few inputs, its traceability guaranteed by the European Flax® and Masters of Linen® certification, this natural fibre has become an eco-responsibility reference for the entire sector.

*99% guaranteed by the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp [CELC]

Once limited to a casualwear universe where its natural look and authenticity were prized, today its versatility is the source of its popularity. Designers appreciate its qualities and many major houses have rightfully placed it at the heart of their latest Spring-Summer collection. Plant-based fibres continue to be attractive and are one of the key influences for Spring-Summer 23, giving full legitimacy to this versatile material. For the next season, the latest innovations concocted by spinners and fabricants invite linen to move out of its comfort zone, taking it onto a more technical, sophisticated and resolutely contemporary terrain. 

Discover a selection of fabrics produced from flax presented on our Marketplace and at the live show from 8 – 10 February in Paris, on exhibitors’ stands and on the stand of the CELC. There are also more examples of linen on the CELC platform.

Refined authenticity

For Spring-Summer 23, naturalness and elegance come together to create attractive developments. Linen-based fabrics are more refined, airy and sophisticated. They display a delicate vegetal appearance with subtly apparent irregularities, the materials heralding an elegant and smart freshness.

Fresh shirting

Fabrics tend to be lightweight, even bordering on transparent, or prefer a dense and resounding lightness.Whether 100% linen or cotton blends, they are used to create blouses and pretty spring tops that offer a youthful and chic appearance. The natural irregularities of fibres are discreetly displayed and reveal a slight transparency. Tone-on-tone fabrics, pseudo-plains that imitate classic patterns like checks and stripes, have fun playing with transparency and cut-outs. These fabrics rich with an implicit sensuality are produced in optical whites or rich reddish tones and offer a modern contrast that boosts the season’s spring looks.

For daily use, men’s shirts are at the confluence of casual and city styles, boasting an elaborate simplicity. For menswear or womenswear, these shirts are designed in natural neutrals or pastel greens, as if to emphasise that visual tranquillity. An occasional unisex floral print, a romantic scattering of blooms, emerges here and there, without imposing its presence.

Under a pop influence, vibrant and crazily optimistic colours, in a palette of yellows and solar oranges, inject a hefty dose of vitamin C and playfulness to the rather classic stripes of tops and dresses for the height of next summer.

Sporty elegance

The fibre is also adapted to a sportier register and is demonstrating all its potential. Recognised for its breathable and temperature-regulating properties, linen can be used exclusively or blended with cotton to rework piques and micro-jacquards. This season, knits gain in elegance with buffed versions that combine with palettes of refined neutrals. Inevitably, the retro sport trend means these ultra-comfortable knits are ideal for small polo-shirts and mid-length straight dresses. Referencing elegant tennis players, these garments can combine with urban trousers and pleated skirts.

Flannels are lighter and refreshed by cotton and linen blends. A way of extending the loungewear inspiration to be worn indoors and out, with playsuits, shortened sweat pants and cosy shorts demonstrating a summery vibe.

Relaxed city

At the heart of the creative challenges of the season, comfort is a clear prerequisite and present across all segments this season. Less formal, more fluid, citywear is relaxing and thanks to the innovations from specialists of this fibre, linen has become an essential material for meeting creative expectations.

Comfortable linen

Linen combines with elastane and is enhanced by stretch properties. Developments use attractive densities which give this blend a vibrant appearance and firm handle. Fabrics can also boast being crease-proof and can be used to design hybrid items of tailoring, ideally suited to new daily uses. Skirts and dresses are given a fitted cut which does not hinder movement. Men’s trousers are sharp, and appear in a range of natural neutrals – cream, beige, warm chestnut – giving them an authentic yet contemporary look. These suits are enlivened with classic patterns, black and white checks, or peaceful and calming stripes.

Bold softness

This season, flax is combined with cellulose fibres, viscose and lyocell in particular. This blend produces a material that is more mobile in the hand and offers sensual contact with the skin. It creates lively draperies that shift with the slightest movement. Linen maintains its vegetal naturalness with a visible slub, but is considerably softer. It is particularly suitable in shirt weights to renew traditional men’s shirting, giving them an elegant look that is pleasant to wear. In heavier weights, these fabrics can be used for summer coats in a kimono spirit, to be work with a matching wrap-around skirt suit. In this less formal urban spirit, washed linens adopt patterns inspired by tailoring classics, such as herringbone and stripes, and fit neatly into the urban wardrobe.


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