AW 23-24 highlights: Spotlight on timeless designs

In light of the major challenges of the season and the priority given to eco-responsibility, the AW 23-24 season has opted for frugality and is encouraging us to favour products with optimised eco-design.

In terms of designs, this parsimony can be seen in a certain paring back of resources visible in the creative highlights of the season. It results in simplified design propositions, showcasing the timeless classics.

Simplified designs

The season’s textiles designs take their inspiration from the archives of the major houses. Prince of Wales and geometric checks appear as perennial and pragmatic patterns updated with panache through the prism of colour.

Dissonant checks

The checks this season play the simplicity card. The lines remind us of the well-known tartan and Prince of Wales styles. Attention is focused on the choice of materials such as drape made from precious blends of wool, mohair and alpaca that are sometimes enhanced with a lurex thread.

To distance them from any classicism, colour is freed and shakes up codes by adding a touch of fashion creativity with a strong visual impact. Tweeds take on couture accents thanks to “rose controverse”, while British woollens are given a touch of eccentricity thanks to experimental and unusual combinations. The muted khaki green “fermented mastic” optimistically joins forces with tempered “tender blue” and “saucisse” pink. The Prince of Wales check, based on neutrals, is decorated with chromatic accidents such as “green epilogue”.  

Recoloured geometrics

This season, geometric patterns gain in optimism through the use of colour, going as far as to envisage multicolour versions. The lines evoke a certain rigour and favour checks, circles and triangles that fit together in random associations. They combine discreetly frugal colours, such as temperate neutrals, with more expressive shades.

These designs, worked in a rather minimalist register, can be seen on two or three-tone silks and jacquards, creating an impactful creative fantasy.


Couture spirit

The season is also defined by exacerbated fashion fantasy. With a touch of the show-off but always elegant, this creativity is inspired by the couture spirit. Colours are boldly decadent and flaunt their splendour. They play with an unapologetic pigmentary power that accompanies a deep intensity.

Opulent animal prints

These “couture” colours reinterpret the classic animal prints in a very spontaneous manner. Once again, designs do not stray from the usual standard formats and are placed regularly on backgrounds. The surprise comes from the colour harmonies. Sober and natural colours such as “le molasses” or “craft” combine brilliantly with brash shades such as the greenish yellow “high tech lime” or “saucisse” pink. And in a resolutely couture spirit, neutral tones combine freely with intensely demonstrative flashes of colour such as “controversial pink” or “trivial violet”.


Extravagant faux-plains

Supports favour flowing, shiny silks and are embellished with a choice of bright and decadent colours. We note for example the use of “trivial violet” or “high-tech lime” present in the AW 23-24 range drawn up by the Première Vision Paris teams.


Get a preview of the AW 23-24 range, our other highlights for Autumn-Winter 23-24 and our specialised breakdowns by sector.

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