FOCUS AW 23-24: Linen puts on its winter coat

A fibre that is recognised and favoured for its naturalness and versatility, linen has been growing in popularity for many seasons. Its rustic, plant-based style is attractive and fits easily into summer and winter collections.

Strength, resistance and thermoregulation characterise linen fibres and are clearly part of the search for intrinsic quality inherent in the AW 23-24 season. For their developments, exhibitors have drawn on these qualities while also focusing on technical performance and fashion creativity.

Get a preview of a selection of linen products in line with the creative themes of the season.

Protective linen

Although favoured in summer, linen nevertheless has all the qualities to make it an ideal winter fibre. For Autumn-Winter 23-24, exhibitors have worked on a range of product that can legitimately incorporated into their new collections.

Scientifically-recognised for its thermoregulating properties, linen offers good insulation higher than cotton and viscose and a sensation of gentle but not excessive warmth. It has the advantage of allowing the skin to breath while offering efficient protection against the cold in winter.

Country chic

Exhibitors have worked with heavier weights and warm textures and finishes, inspired by the wool drapes of masculine tailoring. Linen is blended with wool or mohair to offer sturdy drapes adapted to both the city and the country. The season’s linens also boast technical prowess, allowing them to be used to product large winter items while maintaining a visual rusticity. A minimalist marl or tweed bouclette effect can be given water-repellent properties and be used to make cosy coats to protect from the elements while staying elegant.

High-performance linens

Drapes with a dry handle in 100% linen are decorated with geometric micro-patterns and combine climatic and waterproof performances. Linen fabrics with a robust appearance have rubbery coatings or a very fine, almost imperceptible texture and meet the desire for durable items with a timeless appeal.

Denim linen 

Linen continues in its ascendency and is reaching all segments. It has made a place for itself in the Denim fabrics category as a complementary alternative to cotton where it is used in a blend with cotton or hemp, or as 100% linen. It should be noted that the fibre gives exceptional mechanical properties to the fabric and gives it remarkable strength: the fabrics resist wear much longer and hold their shape. Specialists in the sector are as interested in these properties as much as its eco-responsible credentials: linen consumes much less water than its cotton alter ego.

Bold rusticity

The use of linen tends to give a certain naturalness to an item, which has been popular this season in jeans fabrics. Fibres are deliberately visible, with appearances ranging from slub to mottled and extoling visual authenticity.

Extra clean

In a selvedge spirit, these blends have an extra clean finish. Visuals favour a deep intensity of indigo and fabrics have a firm handle: they could be used to renew workwear items this season!  

Fashion linen

Linen reveals its many facets. It moves away from its visible rusticity to lead us towards fashion creativity, playing with textures and designs.

Textures and weave

This visual fantasy is one of the creative themes of the season and is materialised in work around weave and texture, with one inspiration being the male wardrobe.

These weave effects are more or less visible. Certain resemble elegant jacquards, while others are inspired by cotton twill. Wool blends evoke masculine classics with tweed, herringbone, Prince of Wales and caviar finishes. These fabrics revisit tailoring by adding a relaxed touch. In a more casual register, cord rib has a reassuring tactile surface.

Designs and prints

This season, linen is decorated with more or less impactful prints. These prints are influenced by the plant kingdom with a number of graphic features: figurative leaves delicately placed on the weft of the fabric, or more abstract florals drawn in a range of gentle pastels and worked on velvety drapes.

Get a preview of linen materials for your AW 22-23 collections on the Marketplace.

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