Providing both comfort and cosy protection while remaining fashion forward, quilted materials are proving to be a creative highlight for autumn-winter 22-23 collections, making headway in all segments. Flamboyant, quirky patterns, hybrid genres and surprising materials – Take a look at these essential details for the next season.
SPORT AND TEXTURE
Ultra-inflated puffer coats
The season’s emblematic outdoor item, the puffer coat is stepping out of its comfort zone and exploring new areas for expression. With or without sleeves, it embraces new volumes. Inflated to bursting, shapes are longer and fuller, giving the impression of downy quilts, with the addition of ample hoods. Hybrid prints mid-way between mimetic animal prints and neo-camouflage, or sparkling fabrics with a lunar influence, quilted fabrics are not afraid to be seen. Diamond patterns confirm their timelessness, but overstitching effects are infinitely imaginative, producing more creative and personalised designs: enlarged circles, exaggeratedly undulating curves and outsized zig-zags.
Sporty 3D knits
Surprising this season, Sport & Tech knits have expanded and offer 3D designs on sporty sweats and tees. Embossed, bubbly or honeycombed, these carefully-planned volumes are cleverly placed at certain specific locations of the product – elbows, ribbed inlays – to better shape and enhance the garment. It could also be used all over to make an even more striking visual impact.
Padded themes combine with woollens to better appeal as city wear. Slimmed down or amplified to the extreme, they are used to create short bomber jackets or extra-long formal coats, which can be worn with a sharp suit trouser, for example, adding an offbeat note to an overly-strict ensemble. Accessories are role playing the First Lady with a preppie, posh look. Gilded, textured buttons are inspired by the big luxury houses and decorate tweed suits enhanced with a discreet lurex thread: guaranteeing a couture vibe!
In a more show-off register, the generous piles of fur and fake fur are decorated with convoluted over-stitching combined with bling accessories: chains, jewellery, rhinestones. They can be used all over or just on oversized shoulders, to give a glam rock look in men’s and women’s wear.
More futuristic and girly, shiny satins borrowed from silks, boiled and compact, create ultra-short jackets and skirts to be worn night and day. Boldly theatrical, they are also enhanced with a shine that is clearly inspired by evening wear. Moiré jacquards or darkened metallics are enriched with geometric overstitching. They add a subtle elegance to short dresses, made more feminine by their princess lines, puff sleeves and vast skirts, formed from a multitude of gathers.
Stretch knits, decorated with a large range of ornaments – round, square, floral – adopt more or less imposing reliefs. On ribbed, silky or satin bases imitating elaborate Jacquards, these knits give optimal movement to sensual long sheath dresses that are both comfortable and sexy. It also could be used for cropped women’s tops.