After integrating a broad range of recycled materials into its shows and on the Marketplace platform, Première Vision is taking another step toward promoting the circular economy. Deadstock fabrics and components are one of the key elements of committed creative fashion, adding value to the energy already invested in imagining, designing and producing the starting point for collections while building new poetic stories from these unused materials. From a more pragmatic standpoint, the economic gain and compliance with regulations on unsold goods—the AGEC law—are just as tangible. This article provides an overview of this complementary addition to the traditional offer, available at Première Vision Paris from the February 2024 edition.
Accelerating the Integration of Circular Economy Models in Fashion
Circularity in a Nutshell—Finding the right words
According to the MacArthur Foundation, circularity is based on three principles anchored in eco-design: the elimination of waste and pollution, the circulating of products and materials at their highest value and the regeneration of nature. This ambitious program needs discipline, particularly with regard to textiles. With the right approach, you can carefully implement these new economic models in your business and promote your actions transparently with zero risk of being accused of greenwashing.
● Recycling corresponds to the transformation ad integrum of end-of-life materials, where the entirety of the components will be transformed into a product of equal or inferior quality.
● Upcycling involves the re-conception of a design (clothing, accessories, shoes) in order to fashion a new one.
● Revaluation is the term that interests us here: it involves integrating deadstock fabrics and materials in the creative process from the sourcing stage. ‘Dormant’ or deadstock materials are new. They could be from past collections, are production leftovers, have minor defects or were rejected for technical or aesthetic reasons that didn’t match the original specifications.
These three methods can be applied in a closed loop (that is, within the same industry) or in an open loop (in another industry, such as recycled wool used in soundproofing panels in building and interior design industries). Première Vision asserts its natural position as a key player for broadening the availability of solutions for sourcing deadstock materials.
Why Première Vision is Choosing to Enter This Market Segment
Revaluation represents a positive solution for the industry on multiple levels. In addition to the range of committed materials it offers, it responds first and foremost to the need to adapt to the realities of climate change. Between now and 2030, the industry is expected to need 35% more land for the production of fibers, while the volume of water required to produce clothing could increase by 50%, with cotton-producing regions such as China and India already experiencing limited access to fresh water. The decline in availability is compounded by geopolitical tensions, increasing the risks to supply chains, imposing new logistical constraints and driving up the price of raw materials.
Moreover, in an industry that accounts for 10% of the world’s annual greenhouse gas emissions and 4% of drinking water consumed, it makes sense, from both an ecological and economic standpoint, to reclaim stock previously considered waste, freeing up potential equivalent sales stored in warehouses.
An initial experiment involving deadstock from Nona Source at the July 2023 edition of Première Vision Paris also confirmed massive interest from brands of all sizes in a committed solution that is easy to implement. The arrival of the deadstock offer aligns with the Smart Creation area, the eco-responsible sourcing itinerary and the ‘a better way’ signage developed to identify committed exhibitors and guide buyers.
Untapped Market Potential
In France alone, ongoing tensions over material supplies contributed to an average loss in 2022 of €221 million in sales. In the same year, three-quarters of French companies said they needed to improve collaboration with internal partners (74%) and external suppliers (80%) to enhance management of the production chain. Deadstock revaluation is one of the solutions that can also shorten supply chains and stimulate the local economy.
In France, the circular fashion market is expected to almost triple by 2030, reaching an estimated €14.2 billion, with an average growth of around 10% per year.
By 2030, circular markets are forecast to account for around 29% of the fashion market versus 12% in 2022. Within these markets, reuse is the most important and is expected to grow at a rate of around 10%. With ultra-fast fashion brand Shein now embarking on a large-scale initiative centered on reusing deadstock materials in partnership with the American service provider Queen of Raw, circular fashion is no longer just a trend…
The Advantages of Working with an Organisation Like Première Vision
The Première Vision group is an aggregator of value-added solutions for the creative fashion and luxury markets. The presence of deadstock at the Paris editions will enable buyers to see and touch the offer and to exchange directly with the exhibitors to ensure traceability —ideally as exhaustive as possible—as for any first-hand offer.
Controlling this information also ensures compliance with current legislation. Unsold goods from brands and suppliers are highlighted by several of them: the AGEC law (Anti-Waste for a Circular Economy) prohibits their destruction and promotes eco-design; the Climate and Resilience Law and the PEF-CRC are concerned with the environmental labeling/eco-score of products; the European Union Strategy for Sustainable Textiles looks to integration of environmental criteria in the design of textile products and the promotion of textile reuse… Some service providers, such as L’Atelier des Matières, Global Recycled Standard and Cradle to Cradle offering deadstock or services to transform them have labels certifying the repurposed nature of textiles.
Incorporating Deadstock in the Creative Process
The fascinating thing about the revaluation of stock is that it awakens creativity, whether for creating jewel-like garments cut from brocade, jacquard or corduroy—pieces meticulously designed, cut and assembled while working around the double constraints of a limited quantity of material and motifs—or applying the process to large-scale production by reusing several stocks or available large quantities of stocks.
Creating in this way often requires reversing the design process: starting not from a pattern but from the stock itself, the available yardage and the technical characteristics of the material in order to come up with the most appropriate product.
From a marketing perspective, beyond the virtuous action of revaluing, the limited quantities involved when working with deadstock materials further enhances the singular nature of the garment. Marine Serre and Bethany Williams are two examples of committed and inspiring success stories whose creativity and aesthetic value have been enhanced tenfold by this process.
Première Vision Paris PV Hub – Hall 6︱6-8 February 2024︱Paris Nord Villepinte
 The MacArthur Foundation
 EMF, 2021
 ADEME, 2022
 Market Insider, 2022
 Federal Bank of New York, 2022 GSCP Index
 World Bank, 2019
 French Government, 2023
 Interos Accenture, 2022