The AW 22-23 season extols the consistency of its message…and its materials! The divisions between eco-responsibility and enriched qualities have been overcome. With the boom in recycled materials, a growing appetite for natural fibres and innovations around biopolymers, the virtuous effort is diversifying and focusing on processes as well, in order to achieve a holistic approach.
While at the same time, sturdy and reassuring materials are ennobled with technical prowess and subtle fantasy. Where rationality and creativity combine to enhance the coats of forthcoming collections.
Timeless luxury for this season’s outerwear
This season, the strong identity of urban outerwear is structured around robust and elegant woollen fabrics. A vision of luxury that calls for authentic and timeless materials.
Woollen fabrics favour natural and virtuous fibres: wool, cashmere and alpaca, either in blends or 100% pure and increasingly coming from recycled raw materials. Their luscious appearances are perfect for structured overcoats in immoderate lengths, bringing to mind dense, cosy blankets.
Double sided and multilayer fabrics are formed from recycled wool and have a firm handle. The deliberately enlarged weave and the visual aspects – tweeds or herringbones – are ideal for large lapels, and contrasting belts and collars. These cosy visuals are accompanied by a discreet vegetal rusticity: irregular threads and slub linens create loops and flecked appearances on the surface. Produced in neutral, calm tones, sometimes made from natural dyes so avoiding controversial inputs, they imbue these oversized coats with a certain comforting benevolence.
In tailoring, jackets employ wools and drapes made from blends of polyester and eco-recycled cellulose fibres, giving a dry texture and a clean finish.
Items are clean cut and structured, with long, double-breasted jackets combined with straight floor-skimming trousers. They dare to coordinate with classic designs: check, herringbone and Prince of Wales – which are given an offbeat note thanks to stunning vibrations of colour.
To underpin this subtle nod to vintage style, box jackets with round collars and an unimposing structure are far from classic thanks to revamped tweeds and jacquards. Worked in noble, natural materials – wool, alpaca, linen – they are disrupted by shiny, recycled threads or fringes. A deliciously retro style that is resolutely turned towards a responsible future.
A virtuous workwear for casual coats and jackets
In the casual segment, fabrics exhibitors and weavers are focused on materials made from naturally virtuous plants such as organic cotton as well as hemp, linen and nettles. Spinning technologies also draw on the latest innovations in plant threads. By repurposing agri-food waste such as banana leaves to produce new fibres, exhibitors are creating other sustainable alternatives.
Environmentally-friendly gabardines are sturdy and elegant, perfect for the construction of oversized and rigid trench coats enriched with utilitarian details. TThick, waxed canvas is used to design ample, elongated parkas with large protective hoods. The visible weave of these plant-based twills is embellished with naturally dyed threads.
Denims loaded with deep indigo are produced in cotton or in linen and hemp blends. These strong and reassuring fabrics would be ideal for brushed cotton overshirts, worn as outerwear. These shirts can be layered over an authentic denim jacket and combined with a drainpipe jean with a large turnup or a jumpsuit. For silhouettes in love with nature!
For very cold climates, large Outdoor items offer a charming blend of styles. Hybrid puffer coats fall midway between tech and urban influences, elongated and decorated with quilted and spongy padding. Produced from water-repellent woollen fabrics, they are the precursor of a highly-protective winter. A look which moves away from purely functional standards.
Sport & tech jackets & coats
Outerwear from Sport & Tech sets out its ambition to meet environmental challenges and the stylistic demands of the season.
Eco friendly materials
While the desire for lightweight and high-performance sportswear is here to stay, the AW 22-23 season also signals the return of more consistent and authentic handles. Guided by an ever-stronger desire for eco-responsibility, spinners are multiplying solutions based on new-generation synthetic materials. The use of recycled polyester and polyamide fibres is almost a pre-requisite. To find a solution to the challenge of reducing CO2 emissions, spinners are also betting on biopolymers and the production cycle.
Technical fabrics are given a matt cotton-like appearance rich in authenticity. They are used on parkas, raincoats and technical windcheaters. Packed with intelligent details such as removable hoods, flap pockets or hidden zips, they are also rich in high-performance features. Fast-dry, water-repellent, windproof and responsible: they embody the eco-ingenuity of exhibitors.
Naturally stretchy, compact knits complete the range of Outdoor outerwear. Neo-fleeces are made from cellulose blends, sourced in sustainable forests, and from recycled polyesters. Double-sided fabrics in polyester-cotton blends with a brushed interior create warm and sustainable jackets. Some of these knits take innovation further, including controlling the release of synthetic micro-particles. Or how to withstand extreme conditions while aiming for a more virtuous future.