Eccentricity is the watchword for men’s tailoring for Autumn-Winter 22-23. A pronounced wave of creativity and spontaneity that is unafraid of excess and takes pleasure in blending universes to rework the pre-established codes of the genre. Next season’s menswear is inspired by fashion-focused patterns and proposes a formal collection that can be taken out of the office. Free associations that also offer new uses for city wear garments
Read on for our selection of key materials for building your next Men’s autumn-winter citywear collection
Fashion at the heart of jackets and coats
A first focus on men’s outerwear items offering an impertinent take on the classics in this sector. The suit jacket becomes a fashion statement and is designed in new proportions. Deliberately double-breasted as a tribute to formal wear, it adopts an exaggerated line with oversized shoulders. It is worn extra-large giving an ease of movement to the silhouette. It also stands out for the weight of its materials, midway between a tailored overcoat and a casual jacket. Checks and tweeds are definitely in favour and have been run through a fashion filter.
Checks take precedence in masculine designs and this season move away from the classics in favour of a macro format. A clear reference to British chic, a certain “je ne sais quoi”, shaken up by brightly-coloured accidents and oversized scales. There is a clear pop influence in materials with a deliberately firm handle, rather rustic and dry. Brushed drapes with a chic, compact finish are suitable for trouser suits with precise, somewhat rigorous lines, giving a subtle nod to vintage.
A hybridisation of segments and genres this season with highly fantastical tweeds adopted without hesitation by the menswear wardrobe. Tweeds are seen through a technicolour filter to offer sparkling and vibrant versions. But also details such as threads in cellophane shine scattered here and there, exuberant boucle threads and swatches of coloured wool to give an affluent and off-the-wall look.
Formal shirts are also causing a stir this season. Men’s shirts have new weight, a thicker texture and deliberate ambiguity. Somewhere between a jacket and an overshirt, they shrug off their casual style to borrow from the formalwear codes and reinvent the genre.
This season’s shirts shake up our habits and encourage us to rethink how we use our clothes. Worn under or over, alone or layered, shirts can be produced in intermediate weights and in cotton and wool blends. Here the textures reveal their visual and tactile softness, and are available in brushed or blown versions. The traditional Prince of Wales and tartan checks shatter stereotypes, can be micro or macro and are visually disrupted by the effects of asymmetry, coloured threads or woven placed motifs. Hybrid shirts combine with stricter items, such as trousers in dry wool with details such as pronounced pleats.
Shirts are also venturing into Couture territory and continue to explore new uses. A unisex register, merging with the Women’s segment, produced in softer and more fluid qualities, innovate with the use of new blends of cellulose fibres @Lyocell, SeaCell TM or Ecovero.
Find our other breakdowns in our Style Focus for Autumn-Winter 22-23 as well as our materials highlights for Tailoring and Coats.