Comfort is the watchword as Autumn Winter 22-23 shakes up the codes of Sport and weaves new links between sectors. Hybrid looks in knitted fabrics inspired by citywear create a more refined wardrobe. In a more festive register, high-performance and technical materials adopt the Couture spirit: its shine, satiny fullness and transparency in sugary colours.
The silhouette centres around a knitted fabric total look. Loungewear takes on casual shapes to move away from the classic tracksuit. Materials become more sophisticated and lines are redrawn so the only thing left from pyjamas is their cosy comfort.
Firm but supple handles are finer thanks to blends of cotton and silk or Lyocell®. Jogging pants and sweatshirts get rid of their ribbed cuffs and tracksuit codes, opting for more elaborate styles: fitted knit trousers with the addition of sharp pleats or turnups. Sweats are inspired by pullover styles, with high zip-necks or polo shirt collars. Loose teddy jackets are produced in ultra-compact knits that resemble woollens. To complete the panoply, eccentric moccasins and bags bring a touch of humour.
Knits are inspired by warp and weft. Knits with more or less visible diagonal ribs maintain their mono-stretch quality while looking like woven woollens: giving the opportunity to create structured suits with optimal ease of movement.
Fine and dense qualities in wool and polyester blends are used for the jackets and trousers of structured cut-and-sew suits. This lightweight clothing combines everyday practicality and urban elegance and can be endlessly layered.
Fleeces, made in regressive and fine but fluffy materials are proud of their welcoming warmness and offer a refined way to face the winter chill in style.
Classic chino-type trousers, combining organic cotton and alpaca are enriched with a brushed finish. Cuts tends towards minimalism and offer softness and suppleness thanks to double-sided fabric blends of cotton, Lyocell® or SeaCellTM. The sensory palette includes velvety, teddy-bear textures found on short, colourful furs that revisit aviator jackets in shorter versions.
Hybrid jackets and parkas adopt couture behaviours and technical properties. Water-repellent, moiré and sparkling silks are decorated with jacquard-inspired designs or printed with digital patterns. Technical organza in coloured transparency appears on deconstructed shirts and brassieres.
Sensual second skin
Close-fitting knits are decorated with a more-or-less discreet shine. Imagine yoga wear – sensual, figure-hugging trouser suits, leggings and cropped tops – combined with exuberant accessories to dance the night away. Dresses and tops are produced in knits with ornamental jacquard weaves, with or without lurex – in floral, seersucker or geometric designs – that showcase peek-a-boo details.
Couture dresses combine the fluidity of sporty materials with precious creative fantasy. Silks pack a punch with technical performances provided by new blends. Hybrid pairings render silk jacquard water-repellent, for long dresses with thigh-high splits and lightweight, close-fitting tops, designed for fun in all weathers.
Plain or printed silks stand out for their stretch, ideal for developing suits with iridescent finishes that do not hinder movement.
Find all our fashion breakdowns in our other Style Focus reports for Autumn-Winter 22-23.