Focus on AW 23-24 leather colors: a rich and sensory palette The 9 October 2022 - Leather - Colors - Leather

Here, colors reveal a more frugal luxury. Tones have a hand-fashioned, everyday look, like kraft cardboard. There’s an idea of sophisticated rawness updated by novel and decisively modern handles.

Leathers adopt the look of cerused antique furniture. Whitened nubuck leathers recall pull-up effects with graduated nuances. At times nubucks have a perfectly uniform matte appearance. In a “rumpled white“, they resemble an alabaster stone whose mattness is achieved by sanded grain leathers. Rendered in “sausage pink”, bull calf leathers with natural drummed grains reveal all their individuality.

Colors also enhance the raw material look of stones and geological sediments. The “molasses” shade references reddened terracotta, while “green clay” evokes raw loam. These natural hues are coupled with authentic leathers. Behind these distinctive and rustic-looking leathers lie more sophisticated finishes, including barely perceptible varnishes and more pronounced wrinkled effects.

To further bring out their sophistication, these clay-like color duos are mixed with metallic shades such as “bright silver”. Earth and fire come together in a range of sheens, from lead to pewter to copper for explosively creative bags and shoes.

Transformed foodstuffs are endlessly mixed and piled together like an organic fermentation. In a sweet and savory mix, “sausage pink” is paired with a matt and oiled calf leather. Soft and responsive to the touch, the material recalls softened butter, and is layered with contrasting textures. Sheepskins have a spongey woolen side, like sponge cake. The other side is lacquered and crackled in a deep violine, like an artificial berry jelly. This finely layered confection is topped with a crunchy caramel-like patent leather, and a green lambskin detail recalling a jellied mint leaf.

Soothing and sensory, the variations on pink in the Première Vision Paris range – including “fresh flesh” and “sausage pink” – evoke a generously gourmet substance, and a skin-deep, almost nostalgic softness.

Creamy, round and deeply nourished calf leathers are infused with soft shades. These leathers are interpreted in round bags with expanded volumes. Shearlings imitate luxurious coats with long, silky furs, rolled out like a whipped topping in tone-on-tones with a creamy whiteness, like “rumpled white”. Pink shearlings with an ultra-tight bouclette look are as fluffy as cotton candy, and just as inviting. Suede leathers take on an almost whitened appearance, as if sprinkled with talc on the surface. They call to mind the powdered sugar on nougat or plump marshmallows.