The Best of the Autumn-Winter 22-23 denim season The 30 June 2021 - Fabrics - Denim Première Vision

Overdyes are one of the season’s highlights – flamboyant overdyes that highlight denims made of natural fibers such as linen and hemp, and chromatic stories inspired by the earth’s elements.

These include strong browns, subtle shades of ocher and burnt earth, opulent yellows and striking oranges. Denims are worked in chic and premium colorways, evoking wintry suns and luminous rays.

Traceable, bio-synthetic dyes created from organic waste produce random results, like a denim left out in the sunlight or moonlight, naturally faded.

A luminosity that directly contrasts with deep overdyes. Inky blacks that allow the indigo to emerge, underlining the denim life cycle, where colors deteriorate, evolve and change as items are worn and used.

A quite evident softness runs throughout the season, with wash-outs with stormy aspects, delicately cloudy effects, and subtly nuanced bluish tones disappearing almost to whites. A condensation effect is found on both denim surfaces and accessories. Wash-outs create the look of aerial views, and maps of glaciers and oceans.

Surfaces evoke icy seaswith crackled effects, created by laser-printing. Jacquards are treated to a modern re-fresh, with moving, wavy, almost organic-looking motifs.

Flowers look frozen, evanescent, as if enclosed by ice, here again laser printed. Worked in medium scales and all-over, they have an effaced look, evoking winter herbariums, or the faded reminder of a botanical study.

An interest in well-being, an almost a cocooning spirit, emerges as a new necessity this season. Denim turns to the knit universe for inspiration, opting for heavy and dense weights. Face-back fabrics with velvety and emerised backs are worked in lyocell and viscose blends, for soft, cozy handles.

A knit inspiration also influences the increased amount of elastane in the collections. Blends with viscose for medium weights. A jog-wear spirit found in pants, jackets and tee-shirts.

There’s a tactile and disheveled comfort inspired by animal furs and coats, and deceptively messy hairy looks. Needle-punched denims and torn-out or floating yarns lend an altered feel to handles.