S/S22 ECORESPONSIBILITY: Seeking circularity The 15 February 2021 - Yarns - Fabrics - Leather - Accessories - Première Vision Paris

 
Discover the high points of the season for eco-responsible developments and innovations in fibres, threads, fabrics, ornaments, leathers and accessories.

Spring/Summer 22 is uncompromisingly seeking more sustainable qualities, circular and transparent production models. Resolutely engaged in this virtuous circle, Première Vision’s partners – fabrics and accessories suppliers, tanneries and weavers, combine their research and take their innovations even further to develop products with enhanced eco-responsibility along the entire production chain.

Eco & Hemp
At the starting point for eco-responsible textile development is the choice of greener fibres, an area where yarn makers, weavers and knitters continue to make progress. Hemp, the cousin of linen, is full of ecological virtues. Easily traceable, its cultivation requires little irrigation and low levels of pesticides. Its environmental advantages, its climatic properties and its seductive natural appearance are the reasons for its increasing presence in collections. Notable this season is the multiplication of compositions with a hemp base and 100% eco-responsible fibres.

From the spinning stage, it is combined with organic or recycled cottons, recycled synthetics and FSC or ®Refibra viscoses. The fabrics retain their vegetal appearance but the handle is more supple. Jerseys and fleeces reveal finely slubbed or marl appearances in their natural state, illustrated by lively ecrus, beiges with the colour of the fibre or energized coloured shades.

Organic & recycled
Mixed compositions show off their environmental ambitions. Organic cottons combine with various recycled fibres, from ®Refibra celluloses to second-generation polyesters and polyamides, and especially with cottons that have themselves been recycled. These 100%-cotton / bio-recycled fibres are mainly used to produce knitted, denim and casual fabrics and even extend to the manufacture of chic garments with suit-style cotton gabardines and drapes. In leather, tanneries are innovating and diversifying the types of 

 
skins produced from the reuse of waste from the agri-food industry, producing full grain rabbit leather and marine leather from salmon and sturgeon, while ensuring the traceability of the skins. In accessories, recycled materials take the quest for aesthetics to the next level. Buttons in hemp, cotton or recycled paper are perfectly matt, while in labelling, paper made from recycled polyester produces labels with a simple and elegant design.

Fewer chemicals
From the raw material to the finishes, industrial companies are raising their standards. Optimised dosages, less-polluting components, mechanical embellishment procedures; nothing has been overlooked in order to reduce the chemical impact on production. In textiles, green solutions extend to all types of products, cellulose fibres, denim fabrics, digital prints, dyes and treatments for natural or synthetic fibres.

In leather, solvent-free finishes or without heavy metals result in a diversification of textures. The use of plant-based waxes enhances the visual aspect of noble skins, in all transparency. Functional accessories, zips and metallic elements, combine traceability and finishes with a reduced chemical impact.

Greater biodegradability
To create a more sustainable fashion industry, the question of the product lifecycle is crucial, from its production through to its end of life. The compostable properties of certain bio-polymers and polyesters count as some of the greatest advances. Blends of natural materials and plant-based artificial fibres also encourages biodegradability. In leather, the new treatments adopt biodegradable formulae that allow the organic elements to disappear faster without leaving harmful traces in the environment. 

 
Metal-free tanning is turning towards biodegradable polymers. Vegetable tanning has perfected its compositions, accompanied by dyes and finishes that are ever cleaner. In accessories, compostable packaging is diversifying meaning that in addition to paper and card, corn-based biopolymers are becoming more frequent.