Focus on linen for AW 22-23: A plant fibre rising to the creative challenge for next winter The 7 September 2021 - Yarns - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris

Its capacity for adaptation is no longer a mystery. Despite initial scepticism, over the seasons linen has proven that it is very much a winter material, backed by the scientific proof of its thermoregulating capacities.

Linen developments for the next season are tacking another preconceived idea by proving that linen is not only suitable for the casual segment.

For Autumn-Winter 22-23, the hybridization of city and casual codes goes even further, positioning linen as a fibre of choice. Thanks to this multi-facetted fibre, there is no need to choose between formal elegance and casual comfort.

Dyed yarns that are 100% linen or blended with cotton take on the appearance of drape, while giving suit trousers and jackets an authentic character. The fabrics can offer a more or less visible weave while the firm handling sometimes gives the impression of a very clean and study denim. These are materials that can be envisaged on clean-cut clothing, mid-way between Tailoring and neo-workwear. Wools are also adopting a more consistent texture this season with the addition of linen, and timeless herringbone is found on elegantly relaxed items. Heavier linen weaves are made suppler thanks to stonewashed finishes and are used to form suit jackets and trousers that are softer and more relaxed.

More extravagant versions with oversize checks are remarkable for their flashy colours and shaggy aspect, perfect for the trend for fun and optimistic citywear. These fabrics are no longer limiting linen to the natural colours and rustic finishes for which it has been known in the past. Releasing it from its shackles!

In knitted fabrics, regular tone-on-tone quilting and herringbones can be easily envisaged on tops and dresses with a simple, chic design.

Knits conjugate linen with other fibres such as silk or lyocell, creating a dressier aspect in light jerseys or regular ribs with a supple and fluid handle, perfect for sophisticated tee-shirts.

Linen’s proven breathable and thermal properties have encouraged designers to include the fibre in their casual and Sport & Tech collections. Working with heavier weights of fabric, they are revisiting sweats. When combined with winter fibres such as wool, linen offers a reassuring warmth thanks to its welcoming and sensual texture. A cocoon vibe that inspires oversize tops and sweats. Double-sided versions with a brushed surface on the inside create tops and sweats to nonchalantly snuggle up in. Decors do not disrupt this tranquil and peaceful atmosphere. At the most, stripes in calm shades, sometimes blurred, enrich surfaces and renew the essential items of the genre.

But above all, surfaces show tone-on-tone decoration: padded decors that add extra softness to cosy products.

In warp and weft, surfaces adopt downy, ultra-cosy handles. Combined with wool, cotton or cashmere, flannels and brushed or mercerized finishes are developed on tunic shirts with discreet stripes or checks.  Intimate linen-cotton blends in shirting bring softness and subtle slub finishes.

Linen is finding its way into trousers and skirts. For trousers, blends of linen and brushed wool in herringbone or corduroy produce warm finishes. In 100% linen, wide rib cord plays the sensorial card. The visual aspect delights the eye with its obvious softness, simply asking to be touched. In a blend of cotton and elastane, linen cord combines with a fine rib and can be used on fitted trousers and jackets to give a willowy aspect. Sometimes combined with cellulose fibres such as viscose, linen brings surfaces to life, with its bouclé appearance and a subtle marl or slub finish.