Spring-Summer 23 Men’s Bag & Shoe: The omnipresent influence of Sport The 12 March 2022 - Spring-Summer 23 - Leather - Accessories

The square, graphic shopper is the preferred format in this trend. Produced in leathers that have been varnished, crisped or crumpled to imitate synthetic vinyls, the bags are embellished with 60s details. The pop influence combines with carefully chosen components borrowed from the kit of urban fishers: geometric buckles in transparent resin, partially dyed with bright colours, zips topped with sailor’s knots or outer pockets looking like silvery fishing nets.

Shoulder bags bring a relaxed touch to structured neo-workwear jackets, produced in stiff, wet-look materials. Exaggeratedly large, these soft satchels are made from rounded, spongy leathers. Covered with a finely crackled lacquer, they allow the enlarged grain to be seen.

Backpacks adopt the duffle bags of sailors and are reworked in leathers with a damp or jellified appearance to give an ultra-fashion finish. They are completed with signage accessories, including reflective webbing or finishes – buttons, zips, eyelets – that are enlarged and chrome plated.

The influence of water can be seen in the season’s shoes, with ultra-minimalist luxury flip-flops made from leathers with a fluid shine. They are affixed onto notched soles. In a more fashion-focused, juvenile style, oversized neo-jelly shoes are made from leathers covered in a barely-coloured translucent film, thus giving a liquified aspect that is almost unreal. Sneakers have ergonomic jelly soles topped with nibs that hug the sole of the foot. They are enriched with rubbery, waxed finishes. To underline the contract, their upper is produced from matt leathers with a gummy appearance. In the city, exotic skins are used to update classic moccasins with an iridescent shine.

Whether urban or sporty, bags for the next season focus on being lightweight with a high-tech fineness, looking like dry crackly papers. Rather like portable hot-air balloons, maxi-drawstring pouches are teeming with ultra-practical details. Designed in recycled nylons, they can be worn at the waist or around the neck, thus adding a touch of bright colour to the urban environment. More relevant than ever, belt bags in leather like crumpled paper that crackles in the wind adopt water-repellent properties to be worn outside in all weathers.

Backpacks are enriched with nylon and satin fabrics assembled in colour blocks. In a nod to climbing, coloured snap hooks accumulate on these bags and add a neon touch. The ultimate in practical and responsible accessories, water bottle holders produced from clean leathers move away from the Outdoor world to become an urban essential to be adopted immediately.

Sneakers maintain their position as the season’s essential footwear and can be seen on city looks to add an offbeat touch to formal suits.

The Outdoor inspiration is unquestionably attractive. The codes of hiking and mountain sports are twisted with a touch of humour. Soles are given imposing, multicolour cleats with a decorative purpose and are increasingly produced in recycled versions. These protuberant soles imitate terrazzo floors and are punctuated with spots of bright colour. Laces resemble mountain ropes with splashes of high-vis neon. For high summer, trekking sandals are produced from multiple high-performance materials: remarkable blends of sturdy nylons, imitating cracked varnished leathers, combining with refined fabrics like strong, technical satins. Webbing is bonded around ankles while soles are notched to a variety of degrees and create contrast with their gummy appearance. Produced from plastics made from biopolymers, components decorate these urban sandals with geometric symbols, particularly triangles, with a playful, vibrant look.