S/S22 Decoding by universe: Jeanswear & Casualwear The 22 February 2021 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris

Garment wash takes on color in the gentlest of ways – worn effects are fresh, lightening is carefully dosed to reveal pastel nuances and accentuate the potential fantasy in wash-out irregularities. In menswear, these tachist effects, nuanced by partially whitened shades, are an invitation to imagine fuller jeanswear, in baggy versions for the densest fabric qualities, or loose and moving versions for softened denim in pale hues. In womenswear, these refreshed worn aspects are part of a provocative/ingenue register, and invite designs featuring cropped volumes, shorts, little jackets and mini dresses.

Lyocell blends in indigo are diversified, blended with cottons, linens, sometimes even a touch of wool, navigating between casual wear and city wear. The wide variety of weaves is sought after to encourage differentiation: slubbed plain weaves, graphic diagonals, plays on textures or jacquards inject a note of fantasy into denim. Suppleness is multifaceted – soft and malleable in heavier weights for an enveloping jeanswear, fine and light for “free” styles and feminine creations inspired by fluid cuts.

Naturalness takes center stage – from fiber choices to finishings. Denim’s iconic 3/1 twills and diagonal weaves are carried over into ecru without bleaching or dyeing. Finishings have a minimal impact on color, focusing instead on the tactile added-value of fabrics. This approach is in harmony with nature, and is reflected in eco-friendly compositions, combining organic plant fibers with recycled cottons or synthetics. Linen and hemp are slipped into blends and accentuate this plant spirit, to update casual silhouettes and modernize classic jeans.

A raw, tweed-inspired aesthetic invites in the fantasy of denim yarns. Bourrette, slubbed and micro-knopped effects lend authenticity enhanced by a rustic touch to indigos, an invitation to enrich workwear-spirit pieces. The expressiveness of the materials is a catalyst to update utilitarian styles in city versions that are more chic and less streetwear. These denims are part of the selvedge evolution, and herald minimalist jeanswear with more structured cuts and strong personalities.