SS 24: Menswear brings on the shine The - Spring-Summer 24 - Fabrics - Première Vision Paris
Men’s collections for Spring Summer 24 are growing more fluid. In the latest ready-to-wear collections, looks venture into style codes long considered feminine – like shine and pastels. Collections fluctuate between a feeling of weightlessness inspired by the virtual realm, and a natural quality afforded by the use of raw materials.
Vaunted shine
This season, shine is interpreted in a masculine vein. Fabrics and materials have a lively, shifting gleam. Pastel tones interact on bases that glow. Such surreal-looking reflections are broken down across all product categories, from gleaming silkies to leathers shot through with sequins and light-reflecting technical fabrics. From ultra-subtle to full-on flashy, reflections give a modern spin to men’s basics like oversized shorts, jackets and pants.
Colorful denim
Meanwhile, denim turns back to color. Alongside the usual variations on blue, we’re seeing the emergence of intense, luminous hues. Chromatic variations range from brights to muted pastels, played in contrasting wash-outs. The new denims are anything but basic, ready to take center stage in the season’s new silhouettes. Designs combine patches and braiding, deconstructed and layered looks. For pants and jackets ready to pile on the style, color and texture effects.
Luxe workwear
The workwear universe was originally technical and functional – now it’s all about sophisticated silhouettes. While practical details like rivets and multiple pockets continue to reference manual labor, cuts are now impeccably designed and constructions cleverly conceived. Fabrics are denser and more luxurious, shifting workwear into a more elegant register. For luxury pieces that can easily slip into everyday looks.
Refined & natural
Alongside this quest for an ethereal quality, there’s a return to a certain naturalness, and here linen – the bast fiber par excellence – takes pride of place. Even when blended, its subbed yarns introduce a note of irregularity to fabrics. How to work linen this season? In impeccable city silhouettes. Fabrics with visible structures and neutral tones lend a note of surprise to immaculately tailored looks. They also impart lightness and heat-regulating properties to a full gamut of products, from women’s suits to elegant shirts.
