Spring-Summer 24 Fabrics: Shirting The - Spring-Summer 24 - Première Vision Paris
Ever elegant shirtings are redrawing the codes of city shirts. Bast fibers and their vegetal refinement inject a fresh note to suits, while maintaining a polished look and proper hold. Dynamic shades are strongly in evidence, yet graphically rigorous, in line with traditional color wovens. And when a light touch of fantasy sets in, it’s to better appreciate the ambiguous subtleties of non-gendered shirting.
Linen, with ramie in its wake, is by now a permanent fixture in shirtings, and brings a touch of rural candor to the city uniform. With their fresh, clean handles, chambrays, fine plain-wovens, handkerchief checks and banker’s stripes set forth a new, more casual, but unmistakably refined dress code. The subtle irregularities of bast fibers lend a nuanced artisanal delicacy to the more formal rigor of suitings. We’ll like even the fold marks of these fabrics, made to dry in the open air, with their ever so elegant wrinkles.
Nothing could appear simpler than these wide, evenly spaced stripes, with a punchy dazzle to wake up the classic shirting universe. But look a bit more closely at these well-finished poplins, fine percales and mercerized cottons and you’ll discover fine satin bands outlining their stripes, and ombré effects creating an illusory texture. Here we see the little secrets of weavers that lead to this particular kind of shine. The same secrets lie behind the neat, impeccable, and well-ordered look of a firmly channeled chromatic freedom.
At work or on vacation, men and women alike are sure to appreciate the tiny details that make a difference: the fluidity of Tencel, the airy lightness of nansooks and gauzes, the precious feel of an ounce of silk. We detect the subtle vibrations in a weave, the shiver in a surface, minuscule openworking and charming plumetis, while oxfords and pinwales sport charming little structures, micro-figureds, shorn jacquards and delicate threading.