This AW 24-25 season embraces spectacular leather, featuring combined finishes for an enhanced couture mood. (See our previous article, AW 24–25 Preview: Majestic Leathers.)
Borrowing techniques usually reserved for evening wear, leather flirts provocatively with the world of textiles. Shine also makes a comeback on mesmerizing, sun-kissed metallics.
A couture influence infuses collections that blur the line between leather and textiles. Skins, envisioned as precious jewels, compete in sophistication. Their extreme finishes suggest evening wear, pleats, smocking, embroideries, and even lace and fringe effects.
Shearlings increasingly imitate fur, now matching its airiness and silkiness. Wool treatment, dyeing and partial shaving techniques allow for renewed creativity.
This season, metallic leathers emulate the sun’s rays. Shine is applied in undulating gradations, reflecting light which follows its movement. Shifting leathers create complementary associations, enlivened by chromatic variations ranging from warm oranges to dark greens, turquoises and purples that cool the palette. Finishes, finely laminated or pigmented, do not impair the suppleness of skins.
The season’s reigning metallic hue is a perfect platinum. Bridging gold and silver, and warm and cool shades, its vibrant shine is obtained through micro-sequin finishes that mimic nuggets of the precious metal. Best used as a color contrast with the season’s pale tones, on matte or lacquered surfaces.