A season positing a freeze-frame right at the heart of the transformation process.
Representations of states of flux, of moltings, chrysalises and cocoons, influence the season’s textures, transforming transparencies and steering proposals towards hybrid aspects tinged with strangeness. An inspiration that cuts across all collections, impacting fabric weaves, adding texture to surfaces, revisiting transparencies and influencing the themes and graphic styles of print patterns.
Textile surfaces seem to be in a state of metamorphosis, playing on structural variations with mutant textures: opaque or translucent lightweight cloqués, mutant matt/shiny embossings, and magnified weave effects. Knits feature random ribs, in deformed honeycombs and alveolar patterns, in extra-fine or fluffy bi-stretch second skins. Technical and protective fabrics combine transparency and strength. In prints, patterns are inspired by mutations drawn from the world of nature, with figurative designs marked by an unsettling ambiguity. Proposals even evoke fictional metamorphoses between flora and fauna, new animal hybrids, and shaded tonal motifs featuring pearly or iridescent finishings
Transparencies are shaped like the wrappings of chrysalises, for evanescent silkies structured with visible weaves, chiffons enriched with seersucker effects, figured organza and organdies, and translucent knits. Right down to the details of trims – from buckles to ribbons and ornaments – the season’s transparencies offer a translucent universe imbued with strangeness. In jewelry components, rhinestone pavings simulate precious skin, while mesh, tulle and lace are elaborated in micro-beadings, for precious, fragile-looking pieces.
Cocoons inspire gummy, matte or shimmering sheens with a wet look in components. In leather, molting is brought to life in second-skin effects, with a luxuriously modern feel, including supple skins with an almost rubbery touch, and gummy, silicone or latex finishes. These new mutant skins feature a wide variety of textures: gelatinous, grainy, or dry with a papery feel. Leathers play on contrasting aspects and textures, with, for example, a nourished handle but a crispy feel, cultivating surprise, the unexpected.
The chrysalis thus shapes a season with the elusive contours of perpetual transformation