Denim Première Vision: AW 25-26 Collection

For Autumn-Winter 25-26, Denim Première Vision  adds an extra dimension to the presentation of the season’s trends. For the very first time, an exclusive collection has been developed in partnership with two prestigious Milanese fashion schools: IED (Istituto Europeo di Design) and NABA (Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti).

This ambitious project, initiated by the Denim Première Vision team, was orchestrated in several stages. First, the Denim Première Vision fashion team identified the season’s major trends and presented them to the IED and NABA. 

The 13 selected students then interpreted the trends, each developing an ensemble of two pieces, with pattern-making expert Alessio Berto overseeing the creative process. The project opened up the opportunity for these young talents to design products in a professional context, with the support of exceptional partners including the weavers Berto, ORTA, Sharabati Denim, Rajby Textiles, Kuroki, Titanus, Outside Denim Lab, Advance Denim, Japan Blue and EvloxThe manufacturing stage of the collaboration was carried out by M&J Group in Bangladesh and Fashion Art SpA  in Italy, with a selection of pieces developed by the dyeing and printing workshop Teintures de France. Lastly, two Italian manufacturers contributed their expertise for the finishing touches: BAP Group for buttons and EMMETEX for labels.

The season’s main theme, and the collection’s starting point, is radicality. Extremes collide, giving rise to innovative hybrids: opulence meets purity, structure meets softness, and technicality is juxtaposed with craftsmanship. 
The final silhouettes masterfully capture these polarities, with a focus on finishing, such as color, prints and embellishments.

Chromatic glow

The season’s play on contrasts is expressed first and foremost through color. 
Dramatic black denims are used to enhance palettes, bringing out the season’s pale hues. 
Washes have an illuminating effect on dark bases; rays of colored light are used in unexpected ways; in lieu of the usual whiskers, fade effects are used to accentuate the knees or lower legs; and accents of light are created using deep dye treatments or sprays. 

Among alternative environmentally-friendly creative developments, bio-based blacks border on grayscale and color is made possible by the use of recycled or non-dyed textile bases.

Denim-like effects

The look of classic denim is mimicked using other textile bases for a sophisticated, clean result, while imitation washes can now be obtained by printing, with their modernity enhanced by the use of cool colors in monochrome combinations.
Trompe l’œil visual effects also surface on jacquards, resulting in precious fabrics whose abstract patterns emulate finishes such as the classic acid wash. For a more discreet interpretation, cotton bases also offer denim imitations. 
Alternatively, plays of yarns are used to evoke the denim universe, with the weaves themselves reinforcing the irregular visual effect. 
These neo-denims create the impression of all-over washes, opening up new design opportunities. They also offer a more studied and clean approach to washes, requiring no water in the production process and preserving the quality of the material. 

Sensitive surfaces

This season, denim is arming itself with softness, expressed through subtle tactile effects in a variety of fabrics, evoking velvet or fur. Technically, they are obtained through surface treatments, including flocked effects made from recycled denim or certified viscose. 
Reflecting the ‘extreme embellishment’ spirit of the season, fuzzy effects can be used for decoration made from embroidery or fringe. Placement effects, for decoration or application, open the door to the use of deadstock. 
The emphasis is on highlighting the beauty of the fabrics with artisanal finishes, such as washes and dyes.

The selected students from NABA, Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti are: Simone Bucci, Anna Buccino, Kubra Colak, María Fernanda Escotto and Anna Chiara Rabito. From IED, Istituto Europeo di Design, they are Chiara Cantù and Giorgia Costa (2nd year of the Fashion Design course), and Lorenzo Caola, Francesco Gregorace, Alessia Qurku, Niccolò Mattavelli, Leonardo Rosa and Alessia Ferrucci (3rd year of the Fashion Design course).

Check out the Autumn-Winter 25-26 Denim Decoding.

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