For the Autumn-Winter 23-24 season, women’s shoes riff on a variety of eras, offering up very personal contemporary interpretations. These renditions navigate brilliantly between a futuristic vision made of radical aesthetics and more classical references infused with mindful luxury. Such creative desires require resolutely authentic leathers and exuberant expressiveness, bolstered by deliberately excessive volumes and numerous embellishments.
Immerse yourself in a selection of leathers spotted by Première Vision’s fashion teams to compose your leather accessories collections for Autumn-Winter 23-24.
An homage to the ancestral leather goods expertise, with leathers of resolute authenticity. Iconic women’s styles feature exaggerated volumes and flaunt their singularity. The college spirit and retro inspirations play with contrasts with seeming innocence, setting the stage once and for all!
College-day derbies and unisex loafers are back, mounted on thick, notched soles that are light so as not to weigh down the product. Volumes, meanwhile, are deliberately exaggerated — too square or too rounded — for a slightly naive effect. Toes and quarters alternate leathers, with different renderings and colors to create visual surprise. Smooth, shiny box calf leathers and glazed patinas combine with leathers with visible grains. This contrast is sometimes accentuated by colored reverse welting.
The other option for revisiting the classics is to play up color. Optimistic and high-energy colorways look to winter with a certain youthful candor. Mary Janes with gigantic soles come in waxed or varnished colored leather and are worn with knee socks. Slingback shapes are accompanied by kitten heels and pointed toes, an ongoing nod to retro styles. This season’s hands-down essential: an infinite variety of thigh-high boots. Constructed in ultra-soft suede calfskin, they skim the leg delicately and lend themselves to a monochrome total look.
Rounding out this retro influence, shoes are embellished by traditional tailoring elements. Used in all-over on lace-up boots or placed on the tops of derbies, houndstooth checks go from head to toe. Exhibitors have also developed stretch second-skin leathers in printed versions. Floral or animal patterns are projected onto formfitting thigh-highs that are worn with long, ethereal dresses in the same motifs, the better to blend in with the scenery.
Rugged leathers become sophisticated on hybrid footwear. The outdoor influence spreads to the urban environment. And the season’s omnipresent grunge spirit plays its chicest cards.
Thanks to the grunge influence, back-to-black rules and integrates into autumn-winter collections with a vengeance. Its pluralistic side appears in multiple ways. In the unisex vein, leathers take on more or less pronounced metallic accents, glazed patinas or crumpled aspects. Volumes are imposing, for example on biker boots in robust leathers. A preponderance of accessory components includes jewelry, rhinestones, or beads scattered across the surface of high boots. In a more futuristic register, tags, buckles and an array of metal chains are precisely placed on welts or back strips.
An urban reinterpretation of the outdoor spirit, with rustic shapes. An affinity for boots – fisherman’s boots, rain boots – whose characteristic upper and sole are retained and transposed onto strong, high-performance leathers. Rubber soles are molded to ensure lightness and comfort of wear. Assembly favors seams on the outside and details inspired by extreme sports, with knee padding and stitching recalling those of bikers.
Clog shapes escape for the city accompanied by elegant leathers, whether smooth and waxed, or pony-like skins with dense, shiny hair that may be subtly spotted. Shearling has long, soft curls. Soles may be made of wood or crepe, and stud or rhinestone details scattered on outer seams add a touch of sparkle.
Metallics are in the spotlight this season, in various takes on silver as well as more colorful finishes.
Leather surface treatments give pride of place to colored metallization. Influenced by the aesthetics of the digital world, metallics take on the prism of changing lights. The otherworldly reflections of the Milky Way combine with architectural lines and volumes in avant-garde creative choices. High boots are worked in stretch leather and embellished with geometric motifs, silver, or subtle iridescence. They fit the leg like a second skin. Huge, cut-out platform soles and square 3D-effect toes accentuate this futuristic vision. Spaceship-like sneakers are available in iridescent colored leathers and feature inflated, ultra-light soles.
Silver is also a key theme in women’s shoes this season. Silver takes on a slightly flashy mirror aspect, in smooth leathers that play up trompe l’oeil. Heels are faceted and the montage hidden, while accessories evoke details of molten metal sculpture. Whether piled on or more subtle, rhinestone surface treatments bring an unapologetically showy aspect to pure, rigorous lines.