Autumn-Winter 23-24: Men’s footwear The 9 August 2022 - Bag & shoes - Leather - Men's fashion - Leather - Accessories

This first theme relates to a focus on form. Urban emblematics, derbies and moccasins draw on square or rounded constructions, conjugated with details such as enlarged tongues. They are made from leathers embossed or printed with micro-geometric designs and sometimes combined with colored welts. These leathers draw on intense colors that showcase the grain of the skin, deliberately left visible. Preppy loafers play with a thick platform, matching the colors of the heel or the plateau in woven multicolor with geometric buckles in recycled plastic.

The power of the color attracts the eye like a pop-inspired and optimistic flashback, turning the season’s shoes into items of fun. This retro, but never nostalgic influence, adopts color blocks and sections of cleverly-clashing colors. Models are inspired by sport and allow themselves a mix & match of materials and details that playfully run the risk of being too much. Composite foam soles are deliberately bold and plump welts freely overflow. These models borrow from the construction of skate sneakers and are enriched with laces like sweets and candy. Inflated as much as possible, apres-ski boots are made from matt leathers imitating sports textiles such as neoprene. Accessorizing has a leading role with the addition of curly fur and regressive polars, shaped at the edges, along with incongruous objects. 

The radicality of black is transposed in shoes with a plural intensity.

Imposing boots and shoes are given exaggeratedly rounded toes. Soles display stylized notching. Leathers alternate between matt and shiny appearances thanks to lacquered blots or scratches. The influence of speed and combat sports anchors details in a search for extreme precision. In a biker boot spirit, quilting and padding are placed on bottes and high-top sneakers. Brushed steel is in vogue and found on plates and screws inserted into soles. Multiple zips and clasps embellished with spherical studs interlock precisely, inspired by the world of mechanics. High boots, which have made firm inroads into the menswear wardrobe, are here produced in black patent leather to offer a total look in black.

Rock silhouettes are accompanied this season with exacerbated opulence. Boots rework the iconics of the genre. They are made from soft nappa leather, assembled on Cuban heels and decorated with a teeming abundance of jewels, diamanté and other stones. Square-toed cowboy boots are popular combined with a variety of metallizations. Exotic leathers in mercury silver or pure gold bring a frank opulence and give an indecent shine to wedge moccasins. Pointed derbies adopt a glam rock touch thank to calf leathers decorated with ornamental designs, ranging from ferocious animals to byzantine patterns. Accessories with a variety of historical influences are characterized by gunmetal appearances. Functional accessories – straps with buckles, zip pullers, buttons – are multiple and show-off on boots. They are decorated with finely-carved medieval embellishments and bring a mysterious atmosphere to the looks of the season.