AW 27-28 Key Materials: How a New Relationship with Time Is Shaping Material Developments

For Autumn-Winter 27-28, creation questions our relationship with time, as product longevity becomes a powerful driver of desirability. As carriers of memory, products draw on historical aesthetic references. The approach to materials is exacting, prioritising quality, precision in craftsmanship and the transmission of know-how, whether applied to traditional manufacturing techniques or the most innovative textiles. Silk archetypes, sculptural densities, ceremonial velvets, patinas and heritage-inspired decorations shape an aesthetic where the excellence of the past meets contemporary technologies. Discover how this new relationship with time shapes the materials of Fall-Winter 27-28. Read the article : AW 27-28: Weak Signals of a New Value of Time

The historic influence of the silk tradition runs throughout the materials in this theme, for a sensual and luxurious feel. Satin, the archetype of silky luster, ranges from duchess satin to cotton interpretations. Lacquered or coated surfaces combine strength, durability and protection in smooth, dense qualities.

The silk aesthetic takes on contemporary interpretations: Technical taffetas, performance satins and interlocks with flawless, lustrous surfaces. Compact, solid-colored materials to sculpt generous, majestic volumes.

The velvets draw on pictorial memory and the history of period dress. Woven panne velvets or fluid terry knits, along with decorative, jacquard, embossed or embroidered velvets, explore the expressive quality of the draped fabrics depicted throughout art history, creating rich, theatrical surfaces. Even the cotton corduroys have a sheen reminiscent of panne velvet.

The traces left by time become an aesthetic language, with alterations and irregularities adding to the sense of fantasy in the material. Patinas, faded colorations 
and localized discoloration transform surfaces. Plant dyes create soft, diffuse nuances. Wash effects borrowed from jeanswear and cotton garment washing shift onto more delicate wool and silk substrates.

Memory becomes a creative driver, reactivating major decorative repertoires. Traditional craftsmanship fuels a plural approach to ornamentation, drawing on different textile heritages, eras, and regions. Flowers regain the majesty of the painterly gesture or the precision of motifs found in antique tableware and tapestries. These references are translated into multiple interpretations, extending into more casual and denim-oriented expressions. Ceremonial textiles, Eastern and Balkan influences, ancestral motifs, intersect and are reimagined through materials and techniques.

Historical florals are filtered through a digital lens. Extreme enlargements, pixelation, geometric outlines and loss of definition fragment the classical image and shift familiar visual references. Vintage bouquets are magnified on screen until they verge on abstraction, while elsewhere their contours become more rationalised and almost graphic. From cross-stitch to pixels, decorative languages from the past encounter those of the present. A new floral romanticism emerges, balancing digital precision with poetic blur, textile archives with a digital aesthetic.

Discover the full range of key materials for Autumn-Winter 27-28, developed through the season’s three prospective scenarios — Matter of Time, Matter of Ease and Wild Matter — in the PV Season Report, a forward-looking analysis of emerging signals, material and product directions, innovations and the season’s key evolutions. Discover the PV Autumn-Winter 27-28 Season Report.