Visions Episode 8 - Full Sail Toward Innovation

Innovation takes the spotlight at the upcoming edition of Première Vision, driving the industry’s ongoing transformation. “There is a genuine determination to scale up, moving from ideas to action — and this momentum will only accelerate across Europe,” says Yann Gozlan, founder and president of Creative Valley and member of the ANDAM Expert Committee, which each year awards the Innovation Prize. Worth €100,000, the prize recognizes French and international start-ups developing pioneering solutions for the fashion sector, provided they are implemented in France.

As part of the innovation committee, Yann Gozlan reviews projects offering technological solutions in biotech, new materials, production, distribution, and the broader circular economy—initiatives that are shaping new practices across the sector. This positions him at the forefront of the fashion industry’s transformation.

Innovation Regions and the Global Marketplace

European Conceptualization, Asian Implementation

In today’s fragmented geopolitical landscape—shaped more by competing power centers than by unified blocs—innovation must be viewed on a global scale. Yann Gozlan observes: 

"Asia has become the leader in execution and implementation Europe, by contrast, holds its strength in ideation and concept development, where it continues to maintain a distinct edge. France and Germany stand out as particularly mature hubs for innovation design, with Eastern Europe playing a smaller role. Globally, implementation is concentrated in Asia—driven by China and, increasingly, Vietnam in manufacturing."

Korea and Singapore: Gateways to Expansion in China

“Rather than entering China directly—where legal uncertainties and limited operational control can pose challenges—it is often more effective to start in Korea, where securing a commercial partner is simpler. That partner can then act as a bridge into the Chinese market. Singapore likewise serves as a strong springboard for first access to the region,” explains Gozlan. Yet in a world where instability has become the norm, how should we chart the map of innovation hubs? “Europe’s prospects should not be viewed too bleakly,” he adds. “As customs restrictions intensify, the need to produce closer to home will only increase. This is one of the key projections tied to global economic shifts.”

A Long-Term Projection

"What we see today as members of the ANDAM jury reflects what the industry will look like in five years. From the moment a material appears on a runway to its development at industrial scale, at least five years are required. That is the natural pace of progress. In this sense, we act as a laboratory of future possibilities."

"Take Fairbrics, one of this year’s nominees, which captures carbon dioxide from the air and converts it into polyester. While we won’t see CO₂-based shoes on shelves next season, within five to ten years it could become reality—opening a promising alternative to conventional polyester. Through the ANDAM Innovation Prize—which also provides the winner with a year of mentorship—we aim to shorten this timeline by connecting innovators with partners who can help scale their solutions.”

When it comes to accelerating innovation, Gozlan is clear: “It’s essential to fund risk-taking—whether by public authorities, as in China; in France, often with support from European programs; by an industry player who believes in and commits to a project; or by private investors such as venture funds or business angels. In France, within the framework of European legislation, Bpifrance also contributes through the i-Lab competition, which supports start-up projects focused on innovation.” He adds : "What matters most is maintaining a pragmatic, macroeconomic, long-term vision. While new fibers currently represent only 2% to 3% of global production, that share could triple to around 9% within five years—far from negligible. Tools such as the Digital Product Passport (DPP) and materials databases will support this acceleration by enabling consumers—and all actors along the value chain—to actively contribute to this necessary transition.”

Innovation in Materials and Their Life Cycles

From a macroeconomic perspective, much of the sector’s innovation is centered on materials and their life cycles.

“As early as their first years of study—in fashion schools or at AgroParisTech—students are demonstrating a strong focus on materials,” notes Gozlan. “It marks a genuine generational shift. Giving meaning to their work and striving for better solutions are central to their aspirations, and these values are now embedded in their education.” This sensitivity to environmentally responsible material innovation is also shared by leading industry players, who are acutely aware that failing to advance in this area risks disconnection. When it comes to materials, innovation is taking shape along two main axes: new fiber sources (wood cellulose, fermentation, algae, nettles, cactus, and more) and new approaches to rethinking production processes.

©Spinnova

Green Chemistry and New Fibers

The search for new fibers is being driven by advances in green chemistry, which extend beyond yarn production to include dyeing processes. Gozlan cites two examples: 

« Take the Finnish firm Spinnova, which produces a material from mechanically extracted cellulose—no dissolution required—and with only a fraction of the water needed for cotton. Or EverDye, winner of the 2022 Innovation Prize, which has developed a dyeing process based on bio-sourced pigments that works at ambient temperature, reducing the energy required to heat water by a factor of fifteen compared with conventional dyeing methods.”

Another notable example is the Japanese company Spiber, which creates protein-based fibers in the lab through the fermentation of plant-derived ingredients sourced from agri-food by-products. These fibers are already being integrated into the collections of several fashion brands.

“Everything Is Good in Biomass”: Food Waste as a New Resource

Another promising avenue for start-ups is the valorization of food waste. As Gozlan puts it: “Everything is good in biomass.” One of fashion’s emerging trends is its renewed connection with the agri-food industry.

"We will keep eating bananas and corn. A better use of their waste can ultimately not only produce new fibers while reducing emissions, but also generate new dyes.” 

This applies not only to plant waste but also to fish, whose skin can be repurposed in industries such as leather goods.

©ER Ocean Research

It is increasingly clear that the rapid-growth model inherited from the 1940s has depleted natural resources. Moving forward requires more respectful approaches, closer to those of earlier generations—without turning away from technology. “Technology enables highly interesting material effects. Many research projects now focus on nanoparticles that diffract light, producing color effects without the need for harmful dyeing processes. This is the very effect found in butterfly wings, which scientists have succeeded in reproducing in the lab and are now able to produce at scale."

Giving Old Textiles a Second Life: Losanje Shows the Way

The reality is unavoidable: synthetic fibers continue to dominate fashion. As awareness grows of the health risks linked to nanoparticles and endocrine disruptors, research is intensifying to develop safer alternatives.

“The ultimate goal is to reshape our relationship with materials by creating the conditions necessary for true substitution,” explains Gozlan. “This requires supporting research into new fibers while also addressing the vast stocks of materials already produced, which must be either responsibly recycled or managed. The image of clothing piled high in open-air dumps across Africa remains one of the industry’s most pressing challenges.

Several projects are exploring how to recycle old textiles, transforming them into a new source of raw material for furniture and equipment. The long-term vision is to replicate the positive cycle already achieved with cardboard, produced from recycled paper.” This year’s ANDAM Innovation Prize went to Losanje, whose patented technology can automatically turn unsold and unused textiles into fresh fabrics and products—showcasing circular, sustainable innovation at its best. Looking ahead, AI could help accelerate such progress in recycling “by streamlining logistics chains and optimizing available resources.”

©Losanje

Innovation also extends beyond fibers and yarns to garment manufacturing. “In knitwear, for example, 3D manufacturing technologies could automate certain manual tasks, reduce material waste, and ideally strengthen the competitiveness of workshops in Western Europe. While less radical than breakthroughs in new materials, this fosters collaboration between humans and machines in the pursuit of greater productivity. And this is all the more important given the race against time to preserve valuable know-how.”

With the rapid rise of technological solutions in the beauty sector, health and well-being are set to become even more integrated into fashion.

©Rodinia

Clothing that releases active ingredients or captures data is no longer the stuff of science fiction. While Ralph Lauren’s connected polo shirts, introduced in 2015, did not gain traction, the market already offers motorcycle vests with built-in airbags. Looking ahead, one possible scenario is “a technical jacket capable of counting steps. Clothing will soon be able to store data to monitor daily activity, with direct applications for health and well-being,” says Gozlan. For Gozlan, innovation begins with education. From the teaching of craft techniques in art schools and apprenticeships to HR practices that encourage generational diversity, complementary expertise, and cross-disciplinary collaboration, training forms the foundation that keeps knowledge flowing within teams.

In this broader rethinking of production, it is essential to remember that progress is built step by step—a system of building blocks that enables the structures of tomorrow.

“Securing funding remains difficult for entirely new players. However, many established industrial actors have already committed to advancing production processes. The Innovation Prize supports this transition by identifying new talent and new directions to pursue. It is a powerful illustration of the industry’s collective ability to work together in building a more sustainable future for a textile sector that remains today both polluting and resource-intensive

Discover more episodes in the Visions series