Decoding Spring-Summer 27 key transversal highlights
Without naïveté yet guided by enlightened optimism, the season is defined by openness. It is about moving forward in a world with which we wish to actively engage, revealing its possible and newly emerging beauties. Maximalism is making a comeback, along with a renewed appetite for ornamentation, expressing a movement toward greater generosity and spontaneity. Rather than retreating into icy perfection, we are choosing to improvise with the unpredictable, turning our uncertainties into ever-renewable resources for creative momentum.
Disruptive Optimism
Explore the forward-looking scenario Disruptive Optimism in the SS27 Season Report.
Powerful Flexibility
With their pure, luminous colors and smooth, dense surfaces, these fabrics are expressing fullness and roundness, paired with a tonic elasticity. Compact milanos and enveloping softshells are moving forward with both strength and suppleness, taking possession of the space they are shaping through broad, confident gestures. Vibrant solid colors, matte and compact finishes, metallic flashes, bold stripes and vivid decorative patterns are all taking turns in setting the tone.
Satins, double satins and taffetas are evolving toward stretch qualities, becoming more malleable. This assertive flexibility allows for play between volume and fitted cuts, shaping garments that are both ultra-dressed and ultra-comfortable.
Guigou - FR / Lurdes Sampaio - PT |
Daily Cute
Explore the forward-looking scenario Daily Cute in the SS27 Season Report.
Delicately Airy
For Spring–Summer 27, a lighthearted approach to everyday dressing is unfolding within a register of elegant simplicity, infusing tailoring with fresh energy through cool wools, extra-fine merino and combed mohairs, as well as open panama and leno weaves. Clean summer draperies feel crisp and cool to the touch, refreshed through color.
Silks are turning airy while nylons are quivering lightly. City wear fabrics are becoming lighter, shaping slightly romantic silhouettes that combine chic appeal with ease. Light, pink-tinged, zesty and breathable, textiles are expressing a quest for lightness as much as for freedom, reinterpreting established codes. With a sense of subversion and a touch of irony beneath their seemingly innocent appearance, plumetis, retro ginghams and small all-over motifs are merging vintage references with a futuristic spirit. Tweeds are even appearing among lace specialists, draperies infiltrating shirting fabrics and sporty perforations entering the world of shirts.
Malhia Kent - FR / Xingmao - CN |
JRC Reflex Textile - FR / Alpha Fabrics - KR |
Meltam - TR / Uni Textile - Komon Koubou - JP / Malhia Kent - FR |
B.O.B Textile - KR / Danmao Textile - CN / E.Miroglio - Miroglio Lana - BG |
Functionnal Statement
Explore the forward-looking scenario Functionnal Statement in the SS27 Season Report.
Robust Elegance
Built to withstand use and endure the challenges of time, the classics are committing to constructive modernity. Chic draperies backed with membranes, technical cottons and water-repellent linens are accompanying urban life with the authentic elegance of functional objects designed to last.
Kuroki - JP / Troficolor denim makers - PT |
Utilitarian Design
Diagonal or square, the weaves are straight, solid and precise. Cottons are gaining robustness through yarn strength and weave structure, creating stable materials that are resistant to abrasion and tearing. From butcher checks to banker stripes, yarn-dyed fabrics reference workwear traditions on thick, well-structured bases.
A return to the roots of denim is also being observed, acknowledging its heritage as a workwear fabric. The focus is shifting away from indigo itself toward construction and utilitarian weaves: herringbones, broken twills and gabardines.
Takisada Nagoya - JA Fabric - JP |
Telatex - FR / Daisho Fashion Textile - JP |
Divine Creature
Explore the forward-looking scenario Divine Creature in the SS27 Season Report.
Wet Sheen
Sublime and disconcerting, supple leathers, lacquered patents, plastic-coated laces, compact pearlescent satins, spacers and rubberized meshes borrowed from corsetry are displaying vivid sheens and undulating reflections, like living matter.
Tess Istanbul - TR / Cuirs du futur - FR |
Solstiss - FR / TGM Milano - IT |
Skin-like Illusions
Skin is becoming a transversal material axis. Materials are exploring the human body, playing with illusion and blurring perception through appearances and textures that evoke the skin and vascular networks. They flow and coil, seeking to merge with the body, to sheath it, drape it, coat it and, above all, to embrace its scars and wrinkles with striated, veined and grained surfaces, exalting the moving and singular beauty, far removed from stereotypes.
Ornamental Vertigo
Explore the forward-looking scenario Ornamental Vertigo in the SS27 Season Report.
Ornamental Mutations
The final scenario of the season, Ornamental Vertigo, confirms that we have reached a breaking point with the principles of “quiet luxury,” whereby refinement was supposed to remain discreet. We are entering a new cycle that is opening more space for fantasy and ornamentation. Decorative expression is asserting itself as an essential form of language. In contrast to disembodied technological aesthetics, sensory intensity is heightened here through decorative excess.
For Spring–Summer 27, ornamentation is embracing decorative overload. It is drawing inspiration from historical ceremonial dress while merging these ornamental influences with the world of insects and even bacteria observed under a microscope.
Like spontaneous generations escaping from a living laboratory, caterpillars are proliferating, fringes fluttering, ribbons slithering and beads cascading. Fractals are multiplying within motifs where apparent chaos conceals dizzying symmetry. Metamorphoses, transmutations, traces of decomposition and swelling forms are announcing new births. This is green chemistry, in which life ferments, teeming, uncontrollable and fascinating, re-enchanting an environment that has become overly sanitized.
Ribbon Craft
Another decorative path is paying homage to passementerie. Balancing artisanal heritage with contemporary finishes, ribbons are becoming material, ornament and structure all at once. Finishing ribbons, highly decorative ribbons and even ribbons integrated directly into fabric construction are generating particularly expressive textile effects. Inlaid into jacquards, embroidered as backgrounds, or applied onto tulles and laces, accessories are becoming an architectural element of the fabric itself.
