The “Living Matter” Autumn-Winter 27-28 season is revealing a singular palette, in which color expresses the effects of time, between alteration, memory and chromatic complexity.
Photo credit: @Claudia Fuggetti
An aesthetic of alteration
For Autumn-Winter 27-28, desirability is rooted in the marks left by time, in the ability of objects to bear traces, to tell stories and to endure.
Alterations, wear effects and the marks of time are emerging as expressions of singularity, inherently resistant to standardization, and rich in narrative and character. They are inscribing objects within a slower temporality, nurturing their sensory dimension and sustaining desire over time.
Pigments under the influence of time
A smoky veil is softening the colors, evoking a visual memory infused with Flemish and Venetian references. Deep plums, rich ochres and waxy yellows are taking on a pictorial dimension, between material and light.
Cross-functional and unifying purples at the heart of Autumn-Winter 27-28
From pale mauve to deeper tones, purples are taking center stage this season. Sophisticated, they are acting as a unifying pigment, bringing a distinctive signature and depth to color harmonies. They are expressing a color in transition, whereby shades are shifting and deepening in nuance, asserting a subtle chromatic richness that is never obvious.
From AW 25-26 to SS27, purples appeared cyclically, in subtle touches. Between washed lilac and powdery gray, they gradually settled in, with restraint. For AW 27-28, they are diversifying and becoming more mainstream, establishing themselves as versatile shades intended for an intergenerational audience.
Dusky Violet, grayed and transversal, is embodying tones veiled by time. The Violet Code is emerging as an alternative to navy, while Essence Mauve is redefining the role of pink.
Dusky Violet
Dusky Violet, a smoky purple, is unfolding with versatility across a wide range of products. Suited to multi-seasonal uses, it is gaining ground in a highly targeted way within the menswear wardrobe, particularly among a younger clientele. Rapidly growing in the Middle East and India, it is supporting the momentum of these markets.
Code violet
Purple Code is among the season’s key colors. Its deep and rich density makes it a credible alternative to black across all wardrobes. On the rise, it is enjoying unanimous appeal in womenswear and attracting a younger customer base in menswear. Present across all categories, it is particularly prominent in outerwear, from technical coats to wool pea coats. Now well established in Europe, where it represents a significant market share, its momentum is intensifying internationally, with strong growth in the Middle East and Brazil.
