AW 26-27 Denim Preview: Incandescent Denim

April 29, 2025 by Victorine MOREL-FILLON
Première Vision Denim
Denim

The denim world is ablaze for Fall-Winter 26–27, abandoning its signature palette of cool, aquatic blues in favor of tones that are warm, even fiery, enhanced by surface effects seemingly altered by flames.


Flame Effects

Winter denim seeks warmth by reflecting the glows and hues of the hearth, blending charcoal textures and burnt shades. Here, indigo takes on rust-toned reflections that appear to shimmer across the fabric, or smoky effects in blackened, grayish, and reddish hues. Vivid oranges can now be achieved using responsible pigments, such as Officina39’s Recycrom™, made from recycled textile waste.

Flame and smoke effects inspire gradient patterns dancing between shadow and light.

Exhibitors (from left to right): Tonello, Freedom Denim & Kipas
Exhibitor : Tonello

Crackled Textures

Here, fire is evoked more literally, with surfaces that look as though they’ve been in direct contact with flames. Blue denim is stained with brown and black, simulating burn marks to the point of perforation. Finishes crack and peel away, exposing the raw material beneath. Even the accessories have a vintage, scorched vibe, for a punk look down to the smallest detail.

Exhibitor : RUDOLF HUB1922
Exhibitor : OFFICINA 39

Charred Surfaces

After the fire comes charcoal. These denims are dyed a deep, matte black. Nuanced overdyes rub shoulders with black denims, in colors that can now be obtained in an eco-responsible way, such as with Montega's Natural Black Pigment, derived from food industry waste such as walnut shells.

The deterioration of the material is translated through cut-outs and fragmented effects, while laser-cut, deconstructed forms bring a sense of volume and vitality to surfaces.

Exhibitor: Kipas
Exhibitor: Black Peony

Visit Denim Première Vision to discover these exceptional pieces, from 21 to 22 May in Milan.