AW 26-27 Decodings: Leather
Autumn-Winter 2026-27 puts leather at the heart of an intense and sophisticated sensory experience. This season is defined by its proposals in which light, material and comfort merge in finishes of remarkable technical mastery. Three key trends stand out: a panorama of refined lustres, the rise of velvety and smooth surfaces, and apparel leathers that redefine standards of suppleness and lightness.
Wet Lustres
The first trend explores multiple shimmering effects, far removed from uniform and artificial varnishes. The shines are glossy, yet retain a certain opacity, and their translucence reveals the natural grain and nuances of the hide. The finishes are available in a veritable cosmetic palette: pearlescent powders with iridescent glints, pearly sheens and frosted tones worked in transparency. These plays of light are applied to crinkled goatskins that beautifully capture the light or to calendered and grain-flattened full-grain lambskins adorned with sparkling accents.
Tess Istanbul (TR) / Gruppo Mastrotto (IT) | Dias Ruivo (PT) / Enes Leather (TR) |
The tones, ranging from cold — icy whites, bluish greens and frosted pinks — to deep burgundies, sometimes take on cloudy, stamped effects.
Here, the shine is not fixed, it lives with the material, accompanying its naturalness. These wet-look appearances seem to be at one with the supple and malleable skins, providing both versatility and durability. From this sustainable perspective, formulations are being improved to enable lively and responsible fancy leathers with reduced chemical impact.
Gruppo Mastrotto (IT) |
Embracing Velvets
In contrast to these gleaming finishes, the season is championing a rounded, tactile register, even on heavy hides such as young bull. Sanded calfskins give rise to extremely delicate nubuck-like finishes, with a powdered hand. Talc-like, whitened finishes enhance this softness, as though cloaked in a mineral veil.
Enes Leather - TR / Raynaud Jeune (FR) | Befamex (MX) / Tannerie Remy Carriat (FR) |
Split suedes flaunt subtle but visible fibrousness, reinforcing a raw and authentic impression. Work is also being carried out on shearlings treated to evoke sheared mink or astrakhan, with a very short, dense pile, as well as cowhides with cropped pony-style hair. These skins stand out with their felted yet airy density, and are well suited to a “cosy luxury” approach in which sensuality takes centre stage.
Inducol (PT) / Tess Istanbul (TR) | Tess Istanbul (TR) |
Apparel Innovations: Finesse and Smoothness
The third direction highlights leathers that have been specifically designed for apparel, developed in search of finesse, comfort and behaviour that resonate with the season’s fluid and draping textiles: ultra-fluid, caressing lambskins or nappa calves with heightened tactility. Their smooth hand and satin sheen elevate the grain’s natural beauty.
This pursuit of finesse and fluidity has seen emblematic leathergoods items reworked into so-called “scarf” versions: the most supple calfskins and even young bull hides are thinned and softened for greater drape.
In addition to washable leathers, innovation can be found in finishes applied to the reverse side: the flesh side is pigmented and protected with an “anti-dust” treatment, enabling unlined garments — even shirts — to be crafted. Extra-fine calendered leathers, with a subtle crackle, or heat-crumpled finishes, lend character with understated refinement.
Vegetable tanning also continues its progress, shedding its clichés: it now delivers unprecedented suppleness as well as a sophisticated handle and a luxurious feel, while preserving essential naturalness. These developments mark a convergence of aesthetic ambition and reduced environmental impact, confirming the current maturity of leather innovation.
