Les nouveaux codes du tailoring

New fabrics, new handles, new styles: innovative textile formulas and finishes for the upcoming autumn-winter 20-21 season are set to refresh the codes of formal tailoring with a honed firmness, suggesting creative solutions integrating past and future, tradition and technology. Here, a spotlight of these developments at Italy’s Lyria, Bonotto and Tessilbiella, and Japan’s Takihyo.

A harmonious marriage of past and future, elegance and comfort, distinction and environmental protection comes through in the blends of wool and recycled polyester showcased at Lyria and Bonotto




Lyria interprets this creative union in its Pianki range of poplin fabrics made from wool (60%) and recycled polyester (40%), which feature a distinguished look and are broken down in checked motifs in grey tones, with hints of white to provide a unique luminosity.

Bonotto is poised to revolutionise the tailoring market with its range of 100% polyester fabrics made from recycled plastic bottles, which use 23 water bottles to make 1 kg of fabric. By emulating the very nature of wool on the card slivers, these naturally cruelty-free fabrics reproduce all of wool’s softness and texture, and guarantee total traceability and extraordinary energy (-60%) and water (-94%) savings.

Potential applications of this new fabric are virtually unlimited – from classic wool blends to offbeat jacquards combining oriental motifs and gleefully pop neon accents.

At Takihyo and Tessilbiella, handles are the key to suggesting new cuts and new visuals.

The pure wool fabric from Takihyo is characterised by a dry and springy handle and a honed firmness attained by the application of a chemical resin finish. With its elegant and technical look, this particular fabric is made on an extremely rare Bradford machine, thus celebrating the 18th-century English textile know-how.

At Tessilbiella, it’s actually Japanese culture that inspires a range of bi-stretch organic wools (60% mohair, 40% wool) characterized by a dry papery handle, suggesting bold geometrical cuts.



A host of new horizons for tomorrow’s tailored looks!

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