Around the world of textile design through 27 new exhibitors
Twenty-seven new exhibitors is something to celebrate! Catching on to the the growing call for personalization and fantasy on the part of the public and the market, Première Vision Designs is boosting its creative offer in all fashion sectors, from women’s and men’s ready-to-wear on to furnishings, childrenswear, accessories, beachwear and high street fashion. A quick global tour of the latest trends in textile design.
Archivist by Gather No Moss, Katie Barrass Design, Silk And Rope, Cocobloom, Hue & Mi, Jilly P. Studio, Lightship Print Shop and Pad And Paw Design Studio all come from the UK, but each of them develops a strictly personal creative approach. The first three offer archival motifs, and vintage apparel (Silk and Rope) from all eras, with a particular focus on prints (Archivist), and hand-drawn designs, embroidery, prints and laser-cutting (Katie Barrass Design). Hue & Mi and Jilly P. Studio, on the other hand, both create a delicate and highly graphic visual universe, with figurative or stylized motifs perfect for children’s fashions as well as accessories and, at Jilly P., stationery. Lightship Print Shop stands out for its sly, pop touch in highly graphic and playful animal motifs; while Pad and Paw Design Studio also provides design consulting services and focuses its creative efforts on developing contemporary woven, knit, embellished and manipulated textiles inspired by their own careful observation of the natural world.
The French contingent is not to be outdone either, with ten new studios featuring ultra- creative proposals: Sarah Vesperini develops fresh and playful figurative motifs, while Cocotka elaborates a soft and fragile universe in a delicate poetic vein. Elisabeth Pannas, from Atelier Jeanne, and Constance Desanti draw their inspiration from the plant world, with refined and colourful hand-drawn motifs for both the women’s and children’s markets. Constance Desanti also features stationery and, since 2017, has created its own 100% French paper brand. Another newcomer is Lucie Mouton from Studio Liu, whose own plant and animal illustrations and pared-down landscapes target women’s/children’s fashions along with interior design and stationery. For her part, Roseline Doublet from the Design39 studio orchestrates a visual symphony that also adapts perfectly to wallpaper, elegantly surfing between handmade sketches and digital creations. Born of a meeting between Brazil’s Cris Wright and France’s Léa Pagnol, Harmonie Studio creates a resolutely cosmopolitan interpretation of the natural world at the crossroads of their two cultures, mixing hand-drawn lines and digital techniques. And at Marlène Ixart, the emphasis is on manual know-how (stamps, watercolour, felt-tip, etc.), in motifs that are alternately figurative or abstract, with refined chromatic palettes and a particularly sensitive graphic line.
Our European tour of the new design studios includes Belgium’s Summertime studio, Denmark’s Drua Simone Studios, the Dutch studio Saltbox Printhouse, Romania’s CoridaKnit Design and Sweden’s Björk-forth. The first of these presents a collection of simple and modern motifs ranging from geometric abstracts to stylised figuratives, organised into themes with evocative titles (Winter Garden, Akira, Sweet Dreams, Isle of Wight and Spark of Joy). The second specializes in knits and the development of knit and woven samples, thanks to elegant proposals that revamp motifs and geometric micromotifs through a play on transparency, reflection and volume. Tessa de Guytenaer from Saltbox Printhouse draws her inspiration from all that surrounds her – from the sea breeze that blows through her studio in Scheveningen to her passion for yoga and nature – for her own hand-drawn designs,. At Rodica Vamesu’s CoridaKnit Design studio, Romanian artisanal and traditional techniques (knitting, crochet, painting on felt) are in the forefront, in designs that transform yarns, fibres and fabrics into sophisticated and warm, always contemporary, creations. Born of the meeting between Pia O. Bjorklund and Magnus Forthmeiier, both experienced textile designers, Björk-forth brings a Swedish graphic sensibility to essential and pure designs, characterised by a unique chromatic and linear sensibility.
The America continents are also well represented, thanks to Mexico’s Sofía Suárez Arttextiles studio and Brazil’s Studio Nankin. The first draws on Mexican art, nature and culture to create a visual and chromatic richness and balance interspersed with a dreamlike symbolism. The second specializes in hand drawing, making the natural world a starting point for figurative and abstract elaborations with a strong colour emphasis.
The world tour of textile design rounds out with the Japanese studio Nix, whose vintage textile archives and contemporary artworks highlight the specific, delicate visual sensitivity of Japanese culture.
Now that’s a wealth of choice!