From 11 to 13 February 2020, Maison d’Exceptions will highlight lace from Calais-Caudry®. Next Level will showcase 14 French manufacturers of Leavers lace through THE LACE REVIEW, the itinerant exhibition and unveil a programme of brand-new collaborations between the manufacturers of lace and the workshops specialising in embellishment, feather craft, knitting and weaving, selected to take part in the ninth edition of Maison d’Exceptions.
XAVIER BRISOUX X DENTELLES MÉRY
ATELIER MARION CHOPINEAU X CODENTEL
CECILE FEILCHENFELDT X COSETEX
ANNE GELBARD X SOPHIE HALLETTE
AURÉLIE LANOISELÉE X DENTELLES ANDRÉ LAUDE
AURÉLIA LEBLANC X DARQUER
MAISON LEMARIÉ X RIECHERS MARESCOT
LUCIE TOURÉ X BEAUVILLAIN DAVOINE
JANAÏNA MILHEIRO X SOLSTISS
LAURENTINE PÉRILHOU X JEAN BRACQ
RICHARD DE LATOUR X DENTELLES MICHEL STORME
Lingerie, ready-to-wear, haute couture: its applications are infinite and the subtility of this technique – known as Dentelle de Calais-Caudry® and listed as French art heritage since 2015 – makes it a luxury material which is perfectly suited to the metamorphoses of the creative process: embroidery, printing, feather work, pleating and more…
To complete this programme, there will be a conference moderated by Pascal Gautrand, founder of Made In Town in the presence of the fashion designer Olivier Theyskens and the lace makers to show professionals how this product can be incorporated into their collections.
What are the prospects for Leavers lace, a perpetual source of creativity?
Thursday 13 February at 2:30pm – Fashion Talks Area – Hall 6
THE LACE REVIEW: a Journey in the Heart of Leavers Lace
At the initiative of the City of Calais, the Direction Générale des Entreprises from the French Ministry for the Economy and Finance and the Region Hauts-de-France have joined forces to highlight one of the most beautiful jewels in the French fashion and luxury industry: Leavers lace. A true cultural exception, this technique of weaving lace – which combines elegance, engineering and creativity – has marked the territory’s economic activity and imagination since its invention over 200 years ago.
The Lace Review, a touring exhibition, gathers the last 14 manufactures still operating in Calais and Caudry and exposes to the foreign public the technical specificities that make the richness and uniqueness of this essential material in the fields of fashion and lingerie.
Lace with its finesse, elegance and infinite variety is an emblematic material that is inseparable from femininity. The exhibition evokes the multiplicity of styles and uses of leavers lace through 14 feminine icons from the worlds of show business and fashion. In each module, it presents a different feminine personality, who by her strength of spirit and fashion bias has changed or revolutionized her time to become an icon: the Countess of Castiglione, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Madonna, etc…
Beauvillain Davoine Caudry
Dentelles André Laude Caudry
Dentelles Méry Caudry
Dentelles Michel Storme Calais
Dentelles Tradition Boot Calais
Jean Bracq Caudry
Noyon Dentelle Calais
Riechers Marescot Calais
Sophie Hallette Caudry
DENTELLE DE CALAIS-CAUDRY®: a unique heritage from Hauts-de-France
Dentelle de Calais-Caudry® is a registered trademark of the French Federation of lace and embroidery. Today, the quality of Leavers lacemaking production remains unsurpassed, which makes all Calais-Caudry manufactures the world centre of woven lace. The exhibition shows the creativity and know-how of these 14 Leavers lace factories. The heart of the exhibition is based on the idea that this territory is not only the source of a unique and globally envied know-how, but that it is also always a source of inspiration in the production of lace. Several patterns, styles and techniques, such as Chantilly or Valenciennes lace, produced on Leavers looms are directly derived from the diversity of regional handmade lace. The combination of ancestral motifs with new textile materials blends tradition and innovation.
Leavers lace is the oldest mechanical lace manufacturing technique, created in the early 19th Century in the region of Nottingham, UK, and a perfect imitation of the delicate gestures of artisan lace makers, the machines producing lace items that previously could only be made by hand.
The current language of Leavers lace is built on five hundred years of developments in lacemaking in Europe, from the Renaissance to the successive industrial revolutions, from the invention of this fine craft to its mechanization.
The origins of lace are quite mysterious: there is no proven trace of its existence before the 15th Century. Europe was the cradle of the lace industry, the technique having derived from netting and embroidery, and its invention is claimed by both Italy and Belgium.
It was in 1665, under Louis XIV, that Jean-Baptiste Colbert created the first royal lace makers in Alençon. That is where the “Point de France” was developed (it went on to become known as the Point d’Alençon), a needle lace-making technique which was designed to compete with imports of fine Italian and Flemish lace. Subsequently, throughout the 18th Century, encouraged by fashion, bobbin lace production flourished in the French provinces, notably in Normandy, Nord-Pas-de-Calais and the Puy-en Velay region.
In 1816, the first bobbin looms were smuggled into Calais by English entrepreneurs in an attempt to circumvent the strikes by workers in Nottingham, and it was in 1825 that similar looms were installed at Caudry. In just a few decades, these two towns became the worldwide capitals of Leavers lace, and today they still boast a dozen or so lace makers in operation.
MAISON D’EXCEPTIONS NEW LOCATION HALL 6
Access upon accredition only
Find out the complete list of the ateliers HERE