AW 26-27 Eco-innovation Focus: Emerging Materials for Leather Goods and Footwear
The leather goods and footwear sector is embracing a new generation of materials. Their ambition extends beyond simply serving as alternatives: they aim to provide truly new solutions that are capable of broadening applications and creating fresh market segments as well as meeting the expectations of buyers seeking both sustainability and performance. The September edition of Première Vision therefore highlighted several pioneering players and material types.
Bio-Based Coated Fabrics: Towards 100% Plant-Derived Formulations
Bio-sourced coated textiles have emerged as a key trend, particularly for bags, shoes and accessories. The goal is clear: to replace petrochemical-based plastic coatings with plant-based formulations.
The latest generations of coatings typically combine biopolymers (PLA, polylactic acid) with upcycled agro-food byproducts, such as apple, grape or cactus waste.
Alterskin®, developed by the French start-up Alternative Innovation, offers a 100% bio-based, recyclable resin conceived as a genuine substitute for conventional coatings. Delivered in granules, liquids for coatings or flexible coated fabrics, these technologies increase potential applications. They represent a decisive step toward fully plant-derived formulations, delivering both a reduced environmental footprint and enhanced physical and sensorial performance.
Finishes are now achieving remarkable tactile quality, as seen in a supple coated knit made from bamboo and PLA, enriched with bio-sourced polyurethane.
Ecolgreentec (KR) | Alterskin (FR) |
Biofabrication: At the Intersection of Living Systems and Design
Biofabrication is emerging as one of the most innovative fields. This process leverages living cells or micro-organisms to produce new materials, and is progressively extending its scope of application: fibers, pigments, soft materials. These developments are distinguished both by their rapid execution — days or weeks are often enough — and their potential to redefine industrial standards.
The Turkish start-up Gozen illustrates this potential with its Lunaform™ biomaterial, obtained through nanocellulose fermentation. It is available in three collections: Origins, which reveals the organic patterns left by micro-organisms; Transparent, a groundbreaking translucent version; and Indigo, a more expressive, creative approach inspired by denim.
Gozen (TR) |
Mycelium: A Rapidly Expanding Sector
Another cornerstone of biofabrication is mycelium, the root network of fungi. Cultivated on an organic substrate, it grows into a continuous matrix that is then dried and stabilized to create a supple, adaptable material. The American company MycoWorks has developed Reishi™, derived from its Fine Mycelium™ process. With its flexibility, strength, and refined finishing, the material has already captured the attention of luxury houses. This biomaterial may also be combined with textile fibers (cotton, silk, recycled polyester) to fine-tune the thickness and performance.
Collaborations with tanneries aimed at developing sophisticated looks and hand-feels are paving the way for next-generation R&D, fostering a fertile dialogue between traditional craftsmanship and innovation.
Other players working with mycelium, such as Mycel Project®, are further confirming the growing interest and potential of these biomaterials, thus opening up new horizons for product development.
To go further: Watch the replay of the seminar Emerging Materials and Sustainable Design: New Perspectives for Leather Goods and Footwear, hosted by Carine Montarras, Yann Gozlan and Pauline Weinmann.
