SS 24 denim decoding: a heightened opulence

The Denim Première Vision show opens its doors this November 23 and 24 in Milan. Discover our decodings of the denim trends for the Spring-Summer 24 season.

This denim season has a particularly expressive identity. Part reverently grunge, part baroquely opulent, denim fabrics turn to a plethora of innovative techniques to create washes, finishes and weaves with high visual impact.

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Expressive washes 

A 90’s influence continues to work its way through highly elaborated products. Products pile on hyper-visual overdyes and worn effects, for an almost dystopian approach to fantasy.

Contrasting gradations

Aged effects enrich the surfaces of sturdy looking denims. Pocket and buttonhole overstitchings appear darker, while wash-outs evoke dusty tones, as if sprinkled with thick red earth. Products are betting on authenticity, with indigo, red and brown color schemes, or buttery nuances. To further the aged look, select areas of the garment are sprayed, to fade the original color and create more worn-looking spots. Clothing is inspired by the functionality of workwear. Cargo pants with big bellows pockets and shirts with rustic details play on contrasting weights and materials.

Grayish shades

Timeless blue and grey shades grow so close together they practically merge. Blacks are infused with light and embellished with irregularities, especially near seams.

Also noteworthy: technological advances now make it possible to achieve more sustainable shades of grey, with washes that consume less water and electricity.


Overdyed pastels are reminiscent of the 2000’s. These slightly acidic colorways are used for loose and boxy shapes, and primarily intended for a younger market. Full shirts, shorts and Bermuda shorts optimize the comfort factor, for a slightly sporty, futuristic silhouette.

Mineral indigos

This season, color steps firmly into denim collections, as evidenced by the search for new shades inspired by raw minerals. This is the result of various techniques, sometimes alternated on the same product. Bottoming, topping and overdyeing all make it possible to vary the shades of indigo from purplish to greenish, illustrating visual transformations linked to oxidation, for example. These summery shades can be found on cropped blousons with authentic cuts or extra loose jeans.

Fancy érosions

Destroyed and patched effects are in the spotlight, the result of highly expressive handiwork. Bridging recyclings and deliberately visible repairs, wear signals the patina of passing time and enhances denim imperfections in the style of Boro textiles or fancy jacquards. 


A first direction highlights worn effects. Here again, the specific recipes of each denim maker combine with a range of different techniques to achieve an extravagant result. Lasers, cut-outs, washes and finishes are employed to achieve worn, relaxed or even distorted results. Fancy yarns in multiple colors are worked in a variety of stitches for creatively patched shirts.


Here, we pay tribute to the passing of time and the history of the garment. With their worn and repaired effects, rustic fabrics are transformed into something decorative. Sometimes pieces of reclaimed fabric are layered together and combined with laser decorations to create a variety of patterns.


This need for creative expression is also reflected in baroque influences. We can see the importance of dramatic motifs gleefully piled together in garments. Various decorative effects and techniques appear simultaneously on products, sometimes even bordering on too much.

Baroque decoration

Big figurative floral motifs and abstract, convoluted lines overlap and clash with each other in highly elaborate product versions. Overstitched bustiers with a super-feminine corset vibe and carrot jeans boast lacing details and cinched waists for a generously curved silhouette. They’re embellished with all-over flocking and can be worn as coordinates, for a flaunted head-to-toe look!

Tear effects are exaggerated, with visible and ragged yarns. Washes are purposely darkened in an overdyed vein. Stones, rhinestones and beads are heaped together in various accessories – especially buttons and jacrons – adding to the dramatic feel.

Contrasting shines

Fantasy is pushed to its utmost expression, with clothing surfaces embellished with imperfections and irregularities. Contrasts are played to the hilt with surface effects and intense shades like pink and violet, which are layered together to cover the garment. Finally, coating and spray paints join forces to create deep gold effects designed to add a scintillating sparkle.

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